Friday, May 5, 2023

Why Beer Styles Come From The Places They Do

Beer styles are not spread evenly over the map, and the pattern is not accidental. A style is what a place could do with what it had, so water, the grain that grew, the climate before refrigeration and the rules somebody wrote down all leave a mark on the glass, and the handful of styles worth knowing are the ones where those pressures happened to line up. This is not another list of what an IPA or a bock tastes like, since the differences between individual styles are covered elsewhere on this blog. What follows is the reason those styles sit where they sit, and what that tells you when you are standing in front of a shelf with a bottle you have never tried.

About twenty brown and clear glass beer bottles of mixed heights standing in a row on a bamboo mat, most with engraved portrait labels whose writing is not legible, with corks and caps scattered on the plank table in front and a chalkboard world map behind showing tan continents with Russia and parts of South America and Australia picked out in orange

Predict the Beer From Its Origin

  • Sort beer by what the yeast did rather than by colour or strength, because temperature and strain are the variable that separates the families.
  • Read water as the first reason styles stayed put, since gypsum-rich water dries a pale ale and soft water shapes a clean lager.
  • Treat the written style counts as one committee's filing system rather than a census, because no agreed number of styles exists.
  • Predict a beer from where it claims to come from before you read what it claims to taste like, because origin predicts the glass more reliably.

Three Fermentations, And Only One Real Split

Everything on the map starts from what the yeast does, and there are three ways to run it rather than the two that the ale and lager divide admits. Top fermentation uses Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which works at warmer temperatures, gathers at the surface, and throws off esters and phenols as it goes, and those byproducts are why an English bitter, a Belgian tripel and a German wheat beer taste of fruit and spice with no fruit or spice in the recipe. Bottom fermentation uses Saccharomyces pastorianus, which works cooler, drops to the bottom of the vessel, and leaves the beer tasting mostly of the malt and hops, which is the whole point of a lager. Spontaneous fermentation skips the pitch altogether, cooling the wort in an open vessel so that whatever is in the air moves in, and the result is dry, tart and slowly changing.

The ale and lager split is the one most drinkers are taught, and it is incomplete in a way that matters, because it leaves the spontaneously fermented beers outside the system entirely. It also hides the actual variable, which is temperature and strain rather than colour or strength. A black IPA and an Irish stout are closer to each other in the fermenter than either is to a pale ale brewed at a different temperature, and once you sort beer by what the yeast did rather than by what it looks like, most of the style guide starts explaining itself.

Water Was The First Reason Styles Stayed Put

Before anybody could buy mineral salts in a bag, the water at the site decided what the beer could be, and the classic examples are still the clearest way to see it. Burton upon Trent sits on gypsum-rich water that raises sulphate, which hardens hop bitterness and dries a pale ale out, and the town's name is still printed on a beer style because of it. Pilsen has soft water, which is why the pale, bitter, clean lager invented there in 1842 cannot be reproduced by simply copying the recipe into hard water. Munich runs moderately hard, and the dark malts in a dunkel or a bock supply the acidity the water lacks, which is the reason the city's traditional beers are dark rather than a choice of taste. Dublin's water suits roasted barley, and that is a real part of why stout became the city's drink rather than only a habit.

None of that binds a brewer now, and that is the point worth carrying to a BC taproom. Every water supply in the province can be adjusted with salts to imitate any of the four towns above, which is why a perfectly good pilsner can be brewed on the Island and why the water argument has moved from the well to the mineral cupboard. Styles still travel badly when the recipe is copied without the chemistry, and a brewer who blames the malt for a harsh, flat beer is often looking at untreated water.

Whatever Grew Nearby Became The Style

Barley malt needs a cool growing season and a malting floor, so the grain countries of northern and central Europe produced malt-led beers, and where barley struggled, other grain filled in. Wheat beer belongs to the parts of Germany and Belgium where wheat grew alongside barley, and the styles of sorghum and millet in parts of Africa exist because those grains ferment without malting, which solves a problem a barley grower never has. Rice and maize entered North American and Japanese brewing as cheap, neutral sources of fermentable sugar, and they stayed because the lagers they produced matched what those markets wanted to drink.

Hops are the same story in a garden. Saaz comes from the town of Žatec in Bohemia, Tettnang from a small area beside Lake Constance in Baden-Württemberg, and Hallertau from Bavaria, and each name is a place before it is a flavour. British Columbia has been rebuilding that side of the map rather than inheriting it, with commercial hop growing returning to the Fraser Valley in 2014 when Topp's Hops started on the Topper family farm in Abbotsford, seventeen years after the last of the big Chilliwack yards ended. A BC fresh-hop lager is a style that could only exist where a hop farm and a brewery are within an hour of each other, which is why most of the world does not make them.

Climate Set The Strength And The Calendar

Refrigeration is the newest thing in this list, and lager is the style it created. Bottom-fermenting yeast works cold, and before mechanical cooling that meant brewing in the cold months and storing the beer in a cellar or a cave, which is why the lager family comes from the Alpine foothills of Bavaria and Bohemia and spread everywhere else only once the technology moved. Warm-climate brewing without refrigeration produces sour beer whether anybody wants it or not, since the organisms that make acidity thrive at the temperatures wild fermentation runs at.

Strength followed the same logic. A beer that had to survive a sea voyage, a winter in a farmhouse or months in a bottle needed alcohol and hops to keep, which is where barley wine, old ale, bock and the strongly hopped pale ales sent to British markets in India came from. The tidy version of the India Pale Ale story, that brewers worked out the hopping level to protect the cargo, is neater than the record, and what is not in doubt is that high alcohol and heavy hopping preserve beer. Saison is the calendar case: a farmhouse ale brewed in Wallonia to last through a farming year, dry so it kept, and strong enough to be worth the cellar.

Law And Tax Finished The Job

The Reinheitsgebot is the most quoted document in brewing and the most often misquoted. The Bavarian order of 1516 named barley, hops and water, and yeast was not in it, because nobody understood fermentation then, so any version of the story that lists four ingredients is describing a modern restatement rather than the law. When the rule was extended across Germany in 1906 it came with allowances for other grains in top-fermented beer, which is why the document everyone quotes and the law that actually governed twentieth-century brewing are not the same thing. What the order did was restrict who could brew and with what, which pushed German brewing toward malted barley and away from the wheat, spiced and farmhouse traditions that survived in Belgium and the north.

Tax does the same work without being mentioned. Where the excise is charged by strength, brewers push down to the threshold, and where grain is taxed as food, brewers look for other sugar. Provincial pricing and markup systems in Canada make the strongest beers the most expensive to package and to buy, which is why a barrel-aged imperial stout here is usually a limited bottle release that sells out in an hour rather than a year-round draught line, and why the beer a BC brewery pours all summer is smaller, cheaper and fresher than the one it advertises in December. Rules written for revenue have always produced styles.

How The Styles Are Actually Counted

There is no agreed number of beer styles in the world, and any article that gives you one confidently is guessing. The reference most competition brewers work from, the Beer Judge Certification Program, published 34 categories containing roughly 118 sub-styles in its 2021 guidelines, and that is a judging scheme written by a committee rather than a census of reality. Figures such as 75 styles, or a thousand, or a claim that one country has more styles than anywhere else, are not measurements. The style guidelines are useful in the way a filing system is useful, and a beer that does not fit one is not therefore unusual.

Belgium is where this confusion usually shows up, because the country is genuinely unusual and the numbers attached to it are usually wrong. Recent counts put Belgian breweries at around 304 in 2018 and above 400 active by 2021, and the widely repeated claim that Belgium has more than a thousand beer styles is a mix-up: what runs to well over a thousand is the number of different beers, from a few hundred breweries working in a handful of methods. That is still worth saying out loud, and it is a different sentence.

What A Province With No Native Style Does

British Columbia has no style that came out of the ground here, which is not a deficiency but the normal condition of every brewing country outside the old ones. What a BC brewery does is take a set of imported templates and adjust them for local water, local grain, local fruit and a market that will pay for something made down the road. The mixed-fermentation programs are the clearest case, since a brewery filling barrels bought from neighbouring wineries is doing something the geography makes possible rather than something a style guideline asked for, and the wild and blending houses in North Vancouver, Victoria and Kelowna all sit close to fruit, to wine barrels and to drinkers willing to wait a couple of years for a beer.

The other local signature is freshness, which is a distribution fact rather than a brewing one. A province where most drinkers live within an hour of a brewery drinks beer that has not been sitting, so hop-forward and yeast-sensitive styles do better here than the same beers would in a market with long cold-chain gaps, and a brewer chasing a local style would be better advised to look at how recently the tank was emptied than at what the guideline calls it.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many beer styles are there in the world?

Nobody has counted, because there is no agreed line between a style, a sub-style and a variation on one. The Beer Judge Certification Program's 2021 guidelines describe roughly 118 sub-styles grouped into 34 categories, and other organizations draw the map differently, with some recognizing hundreds of entries and others a few dozen broad families. Treat any single figure as the size of one committee's filing cabinet.

What are the three main categories of beer?

By what happens in the fermenter rather than by colour or strength: top fermentation, which produces the ales; bottom fermentation, which produces the lagers; and spontaneous fermentation, where nothing is pitched and airborne organisms do the work. The common ale and lager pair leaves out the third, which is the reason a lambic does not fit comfortably into either.

Which country has the most different types of beer?

No country is counted that way, and the claim that Belgium has over a thousand styles confuses beers with styles. What can be checked is smaller and still worth knowing: Belgium counted around 304 breweries in 2018 and more than 400 active by 2021, and inside those borders you will find spontaneous fermentation in the Senne valley, farmhouse saison, abbey brewing and the red-brown lactic ales of Flanders, which is a wider spread of distinct methods than most countries manage. Germany, the Czech Republic, Britain and the United States each make an equally defensible argument on a different measure.

What is the best-selling beer style in the world?

Pale lager accounts for most of the beer drunk on the planet, which is a safe sentence, and any more specific answer is unreliable. German Pilsner is frequently named as the best-selling style in beer writing without a source behind it, and there is no global sales table sorted by style for anyone to be quoting. If a page tells you which single style tops the world, it has made the number up.

Use The Origin As A Shortcut

Knowing why a style came from where it did is worth more at a bottle shelf than memorizing a list, because it lets you predict a beer you have never tasted. A pilsner brewed with soft water and Saaz-type hops will be dry and floral whatever the label says. A wheat beer from a German tradition will taste of banana and clove from the yeast. A saison will finish dry enough to seem thin at first, and a Flanders red will be sour in the way vinegar is sour rather than in the way a lemon is. Next time something on the shelf is unfamiliar, read where it claims to come from before you read what it claims to taste like, and you will be right more often than the tasting notes.