Tuesday, May 9, 2023

Abbey Beer and Trappist Beer Are Not the Same Thing

The word abbey on a Belgian beer label tells you about a name rather than about a monk. Abbey beers are commercial beers brewed in monastic styles, usually by a large licensed brewery, and the abbey they are named after may have stopped brewing two hundred years ago. Trappist beer is the narrow category at the other end of the shelf, and it has a definition you can actually check, which is that the beer must be brewed inside the walls of a Trappist monastery, under the supervision of the community, by an operation that is not meant to be making money. Once you can tell those two apart, half of what gets written about monastery beer stops being true.

Two glasses of dark brown beer with thick tan heads on a candlelit wooden table, one in a small stemmed glass and one in a large goblet, with a robed bearded figure blurred in the background

What the Trappist Label Actually Requires

The conditions behind that mark are about place and supervision rather than recipe or taste, and they are set out in full in what the Trappist label guarantees. What is certified is the arrangement, not the flavour, and there is no tasting panel deciding whether a batch is worthy of the seal.

The qualifying abbeys are few, most of them in Belgium, and the names you will run into on a BC shelf are Westmalle, Chimay, Rochefort, Westvleteren and Orval. That membership changes as communities shrink or are founded, which is why the association's own brewery list is the only version worth trusting. Any article naming these abbeys, including this one, should be checked against it before you plan a purchase around it.

Where Abbey Beer Comes In

Abbey beer, printed as Biere d'Abbaye or Abdijbier, is a commercial category rather than a description of who brewed it. Belgium wrote a definition for certified abbey beer in 1999, and it is more candid than the artwork suggests: the abbey named on the label has to be a real one that brewed at some point in its history, but nothing in the rule requires the abbey to be brewing now, or a monk to be anywhere near the kettle. A commercial brewery makes the beer under licence and the religious house takes a dividend where it still exists, and where the community is long gone the money goes to a church body for charitable work instead.

Leffe, Grimbergen and Affligem are the examples most readers will have seen, and behind all three is a large brewing company rather than a religious order. St. Bernardus, a family brewery in Watou in the same corner of Belgium as Westvleteren, sits in this category even though its beers are regularly discussed as if it were a monastery, because the town is close and the styles overlap.

Orval Is the Case That Confuses People

The example that breaks the simple version is Orval. The brewery stands inside the abbey walls and the beer is made by a commercial brewing company working under contract to the abbey, which is why Orval carries the Trappist mark where almost no other contract arrangement does. Westmalle, by contrast, is the monastery's own operation, so citing it as an example of a secular brewery partnering with an abbey gets the relationship backwards. What the mark cares about is place and supervision, and a contracted brewery standing in the right courtyard satisfies that, while a licensed name on a plant fifty kilometres away does not.

Dubbel, Tripel and the Names That Are Not Styles

Dubbel, tripel and quadrupel began as strength labels rather than as recipes, which is why the same word on two different bottles can describe beers that share little beyond a colour and an alcohol band. A dubbel is usually brown and malty, somewhere in the region of six to eight percent, with dried fruit and caramel coming from dark candied sugar rather than from the malt alone. A tripel is pale, heavily carbonated, spicy from the yeast and closer to eight or nine percent.

Quadrupel is not a monastic term at all: La Trappe, brewed at the Koningshoeven abbey in the Netherlands, named its strongest dark ale Quadrupel in 1991, and writers then turned a brand into a shorthand for the darkest, strongest beer in any range, which is why some breweries use the word and others call the same beer something else entirely.

How to Drink Them

  • Pour these into a glass rather than drinking from the bottle, because a bottle-conditioned beer carries yeast sediment that is meant to be left behind or deliberately swirled in, not stumbled into halfway through
  • Serve the dark ones at cellar temperature, somewhere around twelve degrees Celsius, since a dubbel straight out of a fridge tastes of little except sweetness and the spice the yeast made only shows as it warms
  • Treat the strong pale ones as perishable and look for a date, because hop and yeast aroma fade in the bottle and a tripel that has sat on a warm shelf for a year is a dull version of itself
  • Check who is actually brewing before you pay a monastery premium, because the Trappist mark is the only reliable signal on the bottle and an abbey name printed across the front is not one

Frequently Asked Questions

Is every Belgian abbey beer made by monks?

No, and most are not. The abbey name is usually a licensed brand used by a commercial brewery, and the religious community behind it may have no involvement in production at all. The beers you can be certain came from inside a monastery are the ones carrying the Authentic Trappist Product mark, and even there the day-to-day brewing is done by professional brewers the community employs or contracts rather than by monks.

Do monks bless each batch before it is released?

The brewing is a trade and the supervision is the monastic part. At the abbeys that hold the mark, lay brewers run the process while the community's role is oversight plus the right to the proceeds, and that is what makes the arrangement unusual in food and drink rather than what makes it religious. Older monastic rules about hospitality and self-support explain why these breweries exist, but there is no documented ritual in which a batch is prayed over before it is allowed a label.

Can a visitor see a Trappist brewery?

Usually not, which surprises people who have built a Belgian trip around it. The brewery is working premises inside an enclosure whose whole purpose is for the community to be left alone, and several of the best-known abbeys do not run brewery tours at all. What you can generally do is visit the abbey church, buy beer in the shop and, at some houses, eat or stay as an oblate. Which abbeys have opened anything to visitors changes, so confirm with the abbey itself rather than with a blog post.

What does the word quadrupel actually mean?

The least reliable word on a Belgian label, because it carries no agreed recipe, colour or alcohol floor, only a suggestion of dark, strong and sweet. Two breweries selling a quadrupel are not selling anything like the same beer, so buy on the description and the stated strength rather than on the word.

Are these beers worth what they cost in British Columbia?

That depends on which thing you are buying. A Trappist beer costs more because it is made in small volume by a community that is not scaling up, and the price carries the beer and the arrangement together. An abbey beer that costs more than a local craft pale ale is usually costing more because of a licence fee and a container, and the liquid may not justify it. Pour one against a BC brown ale and see which argument you find more convincing.

Buy on the Mark and Not the Name

The useful habit is to turn the bottle around before you let the word abbey do any work in your head. If the Trappist mark is there, a monastery is involved and the money goes somewhere specific. If it is not, you are buying a style that monks once made famous from a brewery doing a commercial job, which is a perfectly reasonable thing to buy as long as you know which of the two you have and what you are paying for.