Showing posts with label craft beer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label craft beer. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 30, 2026

Alberta Beer: From Wheat Country to the Craft Boom

Alberta went from having almost nothing worth pouring to being one of Canada's best craft provinces in about thirty years, and the reason sits in the middle of the story rather than at either end. The province is the country's source of much of its malting barley and some of its best water, so a brewer has always had good raw material here, but for most of the twentieth century the finished beer was not made in Alberta at all. The place filled up with grain, not breweries, until a legal change in 2013 let small ones open at all.

A tall glass of very pale hazy wheat beer with a dense white head on a dark wooden board beside a scattering of barley grains, a still forest lake and tall conifers behind

What Changed In Alberta Beer, And When

  • Understand that the 2013 removal of the minimum production rule is what actually opened the province to small breweries.
  • Centre a visit on Calgary or Edmonton, because those two cities hold nearly all of the craft breweries.
  • Taste a hazy pale ale beside a clean lager, because that pairing shows the distance the province travelled.
  • Check the tap list in the week you travel, because a scene this active turns over quickly.

The First Brewery In The Region

The first working brewery in what was then the Northwest Territories, which at the time included all of today's Alberta, was the Calgary Brewing and Malting Company. A.E. Cross founded it in 1891, and the company soon became the anchor brewery for the whole southern plains. Cross was a trained brewer who went on to be a rancher and a politician, one of the founders of the Calgary Stampede, which is a useful reminder of how small the distance was between brewing and the public life of the city.

That company was the exception rather than the start of a trend. Across the next several decades Calgary and Edmonton grew into regional brewing centres, but they grew by absorbing smaller breweries rather than by welcoming new ones, and the independent brewery as a category more or less disappeared from the province. What replaced it was a handful of large regional and national labels, and that was the brewing situation across the prairies for most of the twentieth century.

The 1980s: A Law, A Lawyer And One Big Rock

The revival started with a single brewery and, underneath it, a single change in the law. In 1984 a Calgary lawyer and entrepreneur named Ed McNally, who had been representing Alberta barley growers and was tired of the beer available to him, opened Big Rock Brewery. He had noticed two things that other people had not put together, which is that the province was already growing the right barley for malting and that it had access to Rocky Mountain glacial water, and he built a business on the argument that Alberta should make its own beer out of its own grain. The brewery took its name from the Okotoks Erratic, the enormous glacial boulder near the town of Okotoks, which is a very Alberta way of naming a brewery.

The timing of that opening matters as much as the argument, because a provincial minimum-capacity rule was what had been keeping small breweries out. At the time a brewer had to be licensed to make at least 5,000 hectolitres a year, roughly 500,000 litres, which is a great deal of beer for anyone starting out, and the rule was one of the reasons Alberta produced industrial lager instead of variety. Big Rock proved the market was there. A few years later, in the mid-1990s, Alley Kat Brewing in Edmonton opened as one of the first modern craft breweries in the province, and the argument was repeated in the capital city.

The 2013 Change That Opened The Floodgates

The single most important thing that has happened to Alberta beer is not a brewery at all, it is a regulation. In December 2013, following industry lobbying, the Alberta Gaming and Liquor Commission eliminated that same minimum production capacity requirement for brewers. After that change a micro, craft or nano brewery could open in the province without being forced to install equipment for half a million litres of annual production, and the effect on the scene was immediate. Alberta went from having a handful of interesting breweries to having one of the densest and most respected craft scenes in the country, concentrated in Calgary and Edmonton but no longer limited to them.

PeriodWhat the brewing picture looked like
1890sThe Calgary Brewing and Malting Company, founded 1891 by A.E. Cross, is the first brewery in the region
Early 1900sCalgary and Edmonton grow into regional brewing centres by taking over smaller local breweries
Mid-century to 1980sLarge regional and national labels dominate, and independent brewing largely vanishes from the province
1984Big Rock Brewery opens in Calgary, founded by Ed McNally, the start of the modern revival
Mid-1990sAlley Kat opens in Edmonton as one of the first modern craft breweries in the province
December 2013The province removes the 500,000-litre minimum brewing capacity requirement, opening the field to small breweries

What Wheat Country Actually Means For The Beer

It is worth being careful about how far the barley story is taken, because the version of it that gets repeated online is usually one step too far. Alberta genuinely grows malting barley on a large scale, and the decision of a brewery to source malt from close to where it is brewed is a real advantage in freshness and cost. It does not follow that the finished beer tastes like the field it came from, since the character of a beer is decided mostly by the brewer's choices about yeast, hops and fermentation, and any brewer anywhere can buy excellent malt. The fair statement is that a Calgary brewery is standing close to one of the raw materials of beer, which is a genuine advantage but not a style.

A Few Things Worth Knowing Before You Plan A Trip

  • Calgary and Edmonton hold the overwhelming majority of the province's craft breweries, so a visit centred on one of those two cities gets you almost everything worth driving to.
  • Big Rock and Alley Kat are the two historical names, and between them they mark both ends of the province's modern brewing timeline.
  • A brewery tap list in a province this active turns over quickly, so confirm hours and current beers with the brewery in the week you travel rather than planning around a list written months earlier.
  • Alberta beer is easy to find in British Columbia, which is unusual for a prairie province and is a direct result of the density of the scene on the other side of the Rockies.

Put A Pale Ale And A Lager Side By Side

The most useful way to understand the Alberta story in a glass is to taste a hazy pale ale next to a clean lager, because that pairing shows the whole distance the province travelled in a generation. The lager is what the region drank for most of its history, brought in from somewhere else, and the pale ale is what it makes now, out of its own grain and water and in its own breweries. The change in the brewing is real, the change in the raw material is less dramatic than the marketing suggests, and both of those things show up clearly when you drink them next to each other.

Monday, May 15, 2023

Saskatchewan Craft Beer: How The Prairie Ale Trail Actually Works

Saskatchewan is a grain province with a small, spread-out brewery scene, and the first thing worth knowing before you plan anything is that its beer culture is built around individual taprooms in Regina, Saskatoon and Swift Current rather than a walkable bar district, which makes it a driving trip instead of a night out. The Prairie Ale Trail, the passport that ties a number of those breweries together, is self-guided, the retail system is nothing like British Columbia's, and what the beer actually tastes like depends far more on the individual brewery than on any prairie signature.

Three glasses of pale golden beer on a round wooden tray at the edge of a weathered plank table, beside three small barrel-shaped wooden vessels, with a ripe grain field and a low sun behind

How To Plan A Prairie Beer Weekend

  • Treat the scene as a driving trip between individual taprooms rather than a walkable district, because no single day comfortably covers more than one city.
  • Use the self-guided passport and sort out the logistics yourself, since there is no verified guided tour product to book.
  • Confirm hours and what is pouring before you leave, because a line that turns over with the season sends you to a door that may not be open.
  • Plan the driving before the first pour, and book a night between cities so nobody has to face a long highway stretch at the end of the day.

What The Scene Looks Like

Breweries in Saskatchewan tend to be single locations in industrial areas or on main street rather than clusters you can walk between, and the province's population is small enough and spread thinly enough that most of them serve their own city and the towns within an hour of it. That shapes everything about visiting. There is no equivalent of a dense urban taproom strip, so an afternoon in one city means a handful of places within a short drive, and the rest of the day is spent on the highway.

The other thing to expect is unevenness. A scene this size cannot support a big production brewery in every city, so one taproom may pour a dozen rotating taps while the next has four beers on and a short weeknight schedule, and none of that is predictable from a map or an article written in advance. What the province does have going for it is the grain, since Saskatchewan is barley and wheat country, and a brewer working where the malt is grown is standing closer to the raw material than most.

Where The Beer Actually Is

Most of what a Saskatchewan brewery makes is poured inside the province, which is the practical reason a prairie beer is difficult to plan around from BC. Small batches, long distances to market and a retail system that works differently from British Columbia's all push the freshest cans toward the taproom, so the beer you read about is usually the one you drink where it was packed, and the assortment in a liquor store is one shopkeeper's decision rather than a brewery's.

The Prairie Ale Trail Is A Passport, Not A Tour

Do not build the trip around a guided bus tour, because the bookable brewery excursions that circulate in write-ups like this one cannot actually be found. What is real is the Prairie Ale Trail, a self-guided passport led by Saskatoon breweries, with Regina and Swift Current breweries appearing on the wider version of it. You collect the stamps and work out the logistics yourself, which suits a province where the distances are large and the schedules are your own.

That distinction matters for planning more than it sounds like it should. A passport means you are responsible for the logistics a tour operator would otherwise handle, so the practical version of a Saskatchewan weekend is one city at a time, with an overnight booked between them rather than a night of highway driving at the end. Regina, Saskatoon and Swift Current are spread far enough apart that no single day covers all three comfortably.

Two Names That Check Out

Pile O' Bones Brewing is in Regina, and Black Bridge Brewery is in Swift Current, and both are real Saskatchewan breweries. What has not been settled is their current beer names, their opening hours or whether a particular taproom is pouring the day you arrive, and in a province where lineups turn over with the season those are exactly the things to check with the brewery before you drive.

A short list is therefore two breweries in two cities plus whatever else is on the passport when you pick it up, which is thinner than a ten-name roundup and a better use of your time, because a stale name sends you to a door that may not be open.

Local Ingredients, Real And Claimed

Saskatchewan grows barley, wheat, rye, oats and pulses, and malting barley is one of the crops the province is genuinely known for, so a prairie brewery is standing in the middle of the raw material rather than importing it. That part of the story holds up. What does not hold up is the list of specific prairie botanicals often credited to Saskatchewan brewers, including bison grass, sea buckthorn and lentils in beer, none of which can be traced to a named brewery.

The Saskatoon berry is a real fruit of the region and shows up in prairie cooking, and some breweries do brew with local fruit, but that is a question for the person behind the bar rather than something a style name can tell you. Ask what they have brewed with grain, honey or fruit from close by, and you will get a better answer, and a more current one, than any list written in advance.

Events And Festivals

No specific provincial beer festival can be verified well enough to name here, so the useful advice is about where to look rather than what to attend. Brewery calendars are where a small scene actually announces itself, since release parties, taproom takeovers and seasonal events are posted by the brewery and updated the same week, while a festival listed in a general article is usually either gone or moved.

  • Check the website or social feed of each brewery you plan to visit in the week before you go, because that is where a release party or an event would be announced.
  • Ask at the first taproom what is happening that weekend, since staff at one brewery know what the others are running in a scene this size.
  • Look at whatever passport or trail material is current when you arrive, because participating breweries and event dates change faster than an article can be rewritten.
  • Plan the driving before the first pour, because a self-guided trail in a province of long highways puts the responsibility for the road squarely on you.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you buy Saskatchewan beer in British Columbia?

You cannot count on it, and no product name is worth printing here that might not be on a shelf when you arrive. Out-of-province beer in BC arrives and disappears with whatever the liquor board decides to list, and Saskatchewan breweries are a long way from the distribution networks that stock a Vancouver shop, so the reliable way to drink prairie beer is in the province that made it.

How do I visit several breweries responsibly?

Pick one driver for each leg, or book accommodation between the cities so nobody has to get on a highway at the end of the day. There is no verified shuttle or guided tour product to fall back on in Saskatchewan, which is precisely why the self-guided passport works the way it does, and a two-hour stretch of prairie road at night is a different proposition from hopping between downtown taprooms.

Does prairie water make the beer taste different?

Water chemistry is a real brewing variable, and brewers everywhere treat and adjust their water to suit the style they are making, so the difference you notice between a Saskatchewan lager and a BC one is more likely to come from how fresh the beer is, what the brewer chose to emphasize and how far it travelled. Grain and climate make a good story on a label; the variables that actually move a glass are the ones the brewer controls.

What is a prairie ale, exactly?

It is a regional phrase rather than a style with agreed parameters, which is why it is easy to use the phrase as though it meant something specific and name no beer to show for it. When you see it on a menu, read it as a brewery's word for its own local beer, and ask what is in the glass, because the useful answer is a style name and an ABV rather than a slogan about the land.

One City, One Weekend

The trip works better narrowed down than it does attempted all at once, so choose Regina or Saskatoon, book a night, and give the day over to whichever breweries are open and pouring when you arrive. Confirm the hours, ask what is fresh, and let the passport be something you collect along the way rather than the schedule you plan around, which is the closest thing to a guaranteed good weekend the prairies offer.

Thursday, May 11, 2023

Icelandic Craft Beer: What Thirty-Five Years Of Legal Brewing Built

Iceland has been brewing beer commercially for about as long as Canada has had legal homebrewing, because strong beer there was illegal until 1 March 1989, and every Icelandic brewery you can visit is a product of the thirty-five years since. That single fact explains more about the country's beer than any amount of talk about glaciers and volcanoes. It explains why the scene is small, why the domestic beers run strong, why the state shop rather than the corner store sells them, and why a traveller expecting an ancient brewing culture should instead expect a young one that had to catch up fast.

A tall tapered glass of pale golden beer with a small white head, standing on a cushion of green moss over dark lava rock, with a meltwater stream and snow-covered mountains behind it under a low sun

How To Read Icelandic Beer

  • Judge the scene as a young one, because every brewery you can visit started after the ban lifted and none of them is old.
  • Set aside the claims about geothermal brewing and stone brewing, since cheap clean energy changes a producer's costs rather than the flavour in your glass.
  • Start with a domestic lager and then move to a porter, because high-gravity lager is what a state shop system pushes brewers toward.
  • Check the current listing before you build a trip around a beer event, because the dates move and some of the written ones do not exist.

Beer Was The Last Thing Legalized

Iceland voted in prohibition in a referendum in 1908 and it took effect in 1915, and it came back in stages rather than all at once. Wine was allowed again in 1922 and spirits in 1935, along with beer up to 2.25 percent, but stronger beer stayed prohibited, so for most of the twentieth century the country was the odd case of a nation that sold whisky and would not sell strong beer. The ban on strong beer was lifted on 1 March 1989, a gap of seventy-four years, and the date is marked in Iceland as Beer Day, which tells you how a ban that long was actually experienced by the people living through it.

The practical legacy is that Iceland has no continuous modern brewing tradition to draw on. Belgian, German, British and Czech brewers inherit recipes and techniques from their great-grandparents' trade, and Icelandic brewers inherited a blank period, so the country's beer is built from imported technique, which mostly means German and Czech lager-making plus a strong dose of American craft influence arriving in the 2000s.

Three Breweries That Are Actually There

  • Einstök brews in Akureyri in the far north and is the Icelandic beer most likely to turn up in a Canadian bottle shop, with an exported range that includes Toasted Porter, a Baltic-porter-style beer brewed with roasted Icelandic coffee.
  • Borg Brugghús brews in Reykjavík and is the name most associated with hoppy American-style ales and barrel aging in the country, which makes it the clearest counterexample to the idea that Icelandic beer is only lager.
  • Kaldi brews near Árskógssandur on the shores of Eyjafjörður, a long way from any capital, and is usually described as one of the earliest small Icelandic breweries, which is worth knowing before you assume the scene started in Reykjavík.

None of these breweries is old. All of them started after 1989, and that is the interesting thing rather than a drawback, because it means a visitor is looking at a live argument about what Icelandic beer is for rather than at a museum of a regional tradition.

What Is Real And What Was Written For A Brochure

Three claims show up in almost every description of Icelandic beer and do not survive contact with the country. The first is that geothermal brewing gives the beer a special taste. Iceland does run much of its heating and a large share of its electricity on geothermal and hydro power, and a brewery can use that heat in the process, but cheap clean energy changes a producer's costs and emissions rather than the flavour in your glass. The second is stone brewing, or steinbier, which appears in Icelandic write-ups as an old local practice and is in fact a German and Austrian term for dropping hot rocks into wort, with nothing to do with Iceland at all. The third is a list of Arctic botanicals served up as the traditional Icelandic ingredient kit, where juniper belongs to Finnish farmhouse ale and birch sap belongs to a handful of novelty beers rather than to a national tradition.

What is genuinely worth caring about is the water and the climate in a plainer sense. Iceland's public supply is groundwater filtered through volcanic rock, soft and low in minerals, which suits pale lager and is a real reason the domestic beers taste clean. The brewing season argument, that a cold climate lets a brewery ferment without expensive refrigeration, is true of BC as much as of Iceland, and is the most useful thing the two scenes actually have in common.

Buying It In A Country That Sells Beer At The State Store

Retail sales of beer stronger than 2.25 percent, along with all wine and spirits, go through the state-run Vínbúðin shops rather than through supermarkets or pubs, which will feel familiar to anyone who has queued at a BC public liquor store. Prices follow from that and from the cost of everything else on the island, so a pint in a Reykjavík bar is expensive by North American standards and a bottle from the state shop is expensive by any standard. The useful consequence is that Icelanders drink fewer but stronger beers, and the domestic range skews toward high-gravity lager for that reason rather than because of some national taste for heaviness.

Food That Works And Food That Is A Dare

Icelandic cooking is built on lamb, fish and dairy, and the beer scene grew up around the same three things. Roast lamb and a malty amber or a porter is an easy match, smoked trout and gravlax work well against a crisp lager, and plokkfiskur, the creamy mashed fish and potato dish that shows up on every pub menu, is better with a clean domestic pilsner than with anything hoppy, because the fat in the dish needs carbonation rather than bitterness.

The two foods a visitor gets told to try with beer are the wrong test. Hákarl, the fermented shark that appears on midwinter tables, is an acquired taste that Icelanders themselves treat as an occasion rather than a meal, and pairing it with a stout is advice nobody has actually tested. The one local food that genuinely belongs next to a beer is hverabrauð, the rye bread baked slowly in the ground using the heat of a hot spring, whose sweetness and dense crumb go well with a dark lager. And a puffin, if you are offered one, is best matched with whatever the person pouring it tells you to drink.

Festivals Without Making Them Up

Reykjavík's Kex hostel, in a former biscuit factory, has hosted an annual beer festival drawing breweries from around the country, and it is the event most of the online descriptions of Icelandic beer festivals are garbling when they invent names for it. Akureyri has its own summer beer event, and Einstök brews a winter seasonal that some write-ups have turned into a nonexistent November festival. The honest version of this section is that Icelandic beer events are real, seasonal and small, and that dates move, so check the current listing before you build a trip around one.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why did Iceland ban beer for so long if it allowed spirits?

The short version is that the ban was written around temperance politics and then kept around practical ones. Beer was the drink of the working day and the cheapest alcohol to make at home, so it was the easiest one to keep prohibited, while the wine and spirits that came back earlier were more expensive and less central to daily life. There is also the long-running argument that keeping beer illegal made imported spirits and wine more profitable for the interests that sold them, which is a claim about motive rather than a documented decision, so treat it as an explanation people offer rather than a proven cause.

Is Icelandic beer stronger than Canadian beer?

The everyday domestic lagers are usually stronger than a standard Canadian macro lager, commonly sitting in the 5 to 7 percent range, and the reason is retail rather than taste. When the only place to buy beer is a state shop at a high price, a brewer's sales depend on giving the buyer more alcohol per króna, which is the same logic that pushed strength up in other expensive markets.

What should a first-time visitor order?

Start with a lager from whichever of the big domestic names the bar has on tap, because that is the beer Icelandic brewing actually makes at scale, and then try a porter or a brown ale from one of the small breweries to see how far the scene has travelled since the ban ended. Ordering an India pale ale in Reykjavík is fine and tells you very little about Iceland, in the same way that ordering one in Kelowna tells you nothing about the Okanagan.

Can you visit breweries in Iceland without a tour?

Yes for the ones in Reykjavík, where taprooms are walkable from the centre, and less easy for Kaldi and Einstök, which sit a long drive from the capital on either side of a road that is not worth rushing in winter. If you are going in the dark months, plan the drive as the trip's risk rather than its scenery, since a daylight-only itinerary is the version that survives an Icelandic February.

Judge It As A Young Scene Rather Than An Ancient One

The interesting question about Icelandic beer is not what Arctic mystery gives it a distinctive taste, because there is not one, but what a country with no legal brewing memory built in a generation once the ban lifted. It built good lager, a handful of small breweries far from the capital, and a craft scene that imports its ideas quickly and executes them expensively. That is worth a night in Reykjavík and one bottle of Einstök at home, and it is a better story than the invented festivals it is usually told alongside.

Chinese Craft Beer: What Grew, What Closed And What Survives

Chinese craft beer did become a real scene, and then the version of it that foreign drinkers knew fell apart. A boom roughly a decade and a half long produced serious breweries in a handful of cities, drew money from the largest beer company on earth, and then lost most of its pioneer taprooms to closures between 2021 and 2025. What survived is aimed at Chinese customers rather than at the expatriates who started it. That is a better story than the hype version, because the reasons the first wave broke have nothing to do with the quality of the beer.

Nine brown and green glass beer bottles with gold caps and Chinese-character labels, standing in a row on a stone ledge in front of a painted sepia backdrop of pagodas, mountains and birds

Why The First Wave Of Taprooms Closed

  • The pioneering rooms were built for expatriates, and when that population shrank the venues had no second customer base to fall back on.
  • A taproom and a bottle trade are different businesses wearing the same name, since cans need a packaging line, cold storage and freight that a single room cannot fund.
  • Look for the survivors rather than the pioneers, because the breweries that came through the cull now sell to domestic occasions through menus and delivery apps.
  • Treat the local-ingredient beers as the ones worth seeking, since they are the only versions of the style that could not have come from anywhere else.

Two Facts Worth Stating Plainly

China is the largest beer market in the world by volume, which is the fact that most coverage circles and rarely says out loud. Beer also became the most widely consumed alcoholic drink in the country measured by volume, a change that gathered speed through the 1980s and was complete by about 1990. The detail lost in the retelling is that baijiu still dominates on the measures the drinks trade cares about, because a spirit at 40% contributes far more pure alcohol per glass, and far more margin per bottle, than a lager at 4%.

Lager Is The Import, And It Arrived Early

China's long fermented-drink tradition runs through rice and mould starter rather than through malted grain and hops, so huangjiu and baijiu come from a different process than anything called beer, and brewing as most readers understand it arrived from abroad at the start of the twentieth century. Harbin opened in 1900, established by the Polish brewer Jan Wróblewski to supply the Russian workers building the Trans-Manchurian railway, and Tsingtao followed in 1903, founded at Qingdao by German and British merchants. Both brewed in the Bohemian pilsner manner, which is why a classic Chinese lager reads as Central European in the glass.

Tsingtao's global profile is a distribution achievement more than a taste one. It became the export name because it could be shipped reliably at scale, which is why it sat on the table at Chinese restaurants across Canada long before most drinkers here had heard of a Chinese microbrewery.

How The Craft Scene Began

One caveat before the video: it documents Taiwan, which built its own craft scene separately from the mainland market this article is about.

The modern scene started as brewpubs in a handful of cities, and it started as a business built for people who had already drunk hoppy beer somewhere else. Boxing Cat opened downtown in Shanghai in 2008 and is generally credited as the city's first craft brewery, with Beijing's wave following shortly after. The pattern repeated for years: one room, a food menu written for foreign appetites, an IPA on the coil, and regulars who skewed toward expatriates and returnees.

That format explains much of what followed, because a taproom and a bottle trade are different businesses wearing the same name. A brewpub can live on the margin from one room's pints, while cans mean a packaging line, cold storage, freight and shelf fees, which is a larger operation than most small Chinese brewers ever funded. AB InBev bought a stake in Boxing Cat in March 2017, and the reaction among domestic brewers was less about the money than about what it implied, since the company running China's volume market thought flavour was worth owning.

What The Beers Do Differently

Where Chinese small brewers get distinctive is in what goes into the kettle after the hops, and the best-known example is not a novelty stunt. Great Leap Brewing in Beijing built its reputation on Honey Ma Gold, a blonde ale made with Sichuan peppercorn and local honey, carrying a citrus top note and the faint numbing tingle the pepper is prized for in the province that names it. Wild West Brewing, outside Chengdu, puts the same pepper into a wheat beer for the same reason. Jujube and osmanthus have both been used the way a North American brewery might use mango.

None of that guarantees a good pint, and an ale built for drinkers who do not prize bitterness can land thin and sweet. The reason to pay attention to the local-ingredient beers is that they are the only ones in the category that could not have come from anywhere else.

What Happened To The Pioneers

The narrow customer base is what broke the first wave. Boxing Cat's Beijing site closed in 2021, and in 2025 AB InBev shut the remaining food and drink venues it owned in Shanghai, which took out Boxing Cat and its sister bar Liquid Laundry and left only Goose Island trading in that city. Kaiba and Shanghai Brewery had already gone before 2023. The causes are structural. The foreign population that filled those rooms shrank, chilled delivery across a country that size costs more per kilometre than drinkers assume, and distribution is fragmented region by region in ways that punish a small brand trying to leave its own city.

What Survives Is A Different Business

The breweries that came through the cull mostly stopped selling to foreigners. Jing-A and Slow Boat are still brewing in Beijing and still running taprooms, with Slow Boat marking 14 years in 2025. Great Leap is still open, but its American founders left during the pandemic years and no longer run it. Newer operators such as Panda Brew have bought larger equipment and pushed toward a national footprint. The shared moves are a Chinese-language menu, sales through e-commerce and delivery apps, and a product pitched at domestic occasions.

One correction is worth making, because the name keeps turning up in older write-ups of this market. Helen's is not a brewery. It is a franchised bar chain founded in 2009 and listed in Hong Kong in 2021, running hundreds of outlets aimed at drinkers in their twenties, and it sells beer rather than making it. The wider market explains why the pivot had to happen. Chinese beer production peaked in 2013 at just over 50 million kilolitres and has fallen by roughly a third since, so growth is no longer a matter of volume. Craft is the slice still reported as expanding while the market around it shrinks, and the two names that set the price of everything else remain China Resources Beer, which sells Snow, and Tsingtao.

Why A British Columbia Reader Should Care

Because the same pressure is visible at home. The BC Craft Brewers Guild reported roughly 20 permanent closures across the province during 2025, and it now represents a little over 200 members, down from its high-water mark in the pandemic years. Seen from there, the Chinese experience is a diagnostic rather than a distant curiosity. It shows what happens to a taproom business whose regulars are one specific sort of person, and what it costs to move a perishable, chilled product across a large geography with weak consolidation. Those two problems look the same whether they sit in Shanghai or in the Fraser Valley.

Frequently Asked Questions About Chinese Craft Beer

Is Boxing Cat Brewery still open?

AB InBev closed its remaining Shanghai venues in 2025, including Boxing Cat and the sister bar Liquid Laundry, and kept only Goose Island trading in the city. The Beijing branch had already shut in 2021. Any article that lists Boxing Cat among the current leaders of Chinese craft beer was written before those closures and has not been revised since.

What do Chinese breweries actually make?

Almost all beer produced in China is pale lager in the Bohemian school, often brewed with rice alongside barley malt, and that is true of the national brands and of most regional breweries. Craft breweries work through the international range, so you will find hazy and West Coast IPAs, wheat beers, sours and barrel-aged bottles, plus the local-ingredient versions that give the scene its identity. The flavoured beers attract the coverage abroad, but they are a small share of what gets poured on a weekday.

Can you buy Chinese craft beer in British Columbia?

Expect the big export lagers, which are easy to find, and treat anything small-batch as a lucky sighting. The first-wave breweries were built around taprooms rather than export, so the volume that ever left the country was modest, and the closures took what export lines existed with them. That sets up an awkward inversion. The local-ingredient beers are the ones worth seeking and the ones least likely to travel, because the pepper and the honey versions were never built for a shelf, and the pale lager that exports easily is the one that tells you nothing about the place. If a Beijing brewery's can turns up near you it is worth the purchase, and it will taste like a competent international beer with a local signature rather than like something exotic.

The Lesson Is About Customers, Not Beer

Chinese brewers were not the weak link in this story. The beer was good, the festivals filled, and medals came back from international competitions. What failed was a business model that assumed one type of customer would stay put, in a market where total volume had already peaked and where reaching anyone beyond the city limits was expensive. If you drink at a neighbourhood taproom in British Columbia, hold that in mind the next time a brewery changes its menu, its hours or its prices, since those are the moves a business makes when the people it built itself around have quietly stopped coming.

Chile: Valdivia's German Lagers And The Patagonia Name

Chile's beer south is a lake-and-river country of German-style lagers, and the name that keeps getting attached to it, Patagonia, belongs to the other side of the Andes. Valdivia and the towns around the Lake District brew the lineage that German settlers carried in during the nineteenth century, while the bottle most Canadian drinkers have actually seen, Cerveza Patagonia, comes from San Carlos de Bariloche in Argentina. Sorting those two threads out is most of what you need to know about Chilean beer, because the marketing has blurred them for years.

A stemless glass of golden beer with a domed white head standing beside a lidded wooden tankard bound in metal, on a weathered plank surface with snow-covered granite peaks and conifer forest behind

Which Country The Beer Actually Comes From

  • Cerveza Patagonia is an Argentine beer brewed in San Carlos de Bariloche, so a bottle carrying that name did not come from Chile.
  • Kunstmann is the Chilean name worth seeking out, because it is the southern brewery that has actually built export distribution.
  • A schop is the everyday word for a glass of draft in Valdivia, and it is the clearest surviving trace of the German settlement.
  • Treat the confident craft brewery counts you find online with suspicion, since the small southern cluster is the part that holds up.

The German Lineage Is Older Than The Brands

Southern Chile's drinking habits are a migration story. The Chilean state settled German families in the southern provinces from the 1850s onward, in the corridor that runs from Valdivia through Osorno to Puerto Montt and the shore of Lago Llanquihue, and those families brought a taste for lagered beer with them. Carlos Anwandter, a German naturalist who settled in Valdivia, was brewing there by the early 1850s, and the city kept a German-school brewing culture long after the settlers' grandchildren stopped speaking German at home. The clearest surviving trace is vocabulary. In Valdivia a glass of draft beer is a schop, from the German Schoppen, and the word has outlived most of the language it came from.

Kunstmann Is The Name To Look For

If one Chilean brewery carries the region's reputation, it is Kunstmann, and its history is far more recent than the settlers it is usually folded in with. Armin Kunstmann began brewing at home in Valdivia in the early 1990s, opened a brewery and restaurant at Torobayo on the outskirts of the city later in that decade, and Compañía de Cervecerías Unidas, the big northern brewer known as CCU, took a 49% stake in 2003. That is a modern brewing business with a distribution arm rather than a nineteenth-century family house, and saying so does not diminish the beer. The range is built on German styles, an unfiltered lager, a dunkel, a bock and a wheat beer, and the restaurant at Torobayo serves them alongside the hearty food that the settlement brought with it.

Austral And The Southernmost Argument

Cerveza Austral was founded in Punta Arenas in 1896, on the Strait of Magellan, and for years the brand was sold on being the world's southernmost brewery. That claim does not hold. Ushuaia, on the Argentine side of the Beagle Channel, sits a couple of degrees further south and has had commercial brewing of its own, so the defensible version is that Austral is one of the southernmost breweries on the planet and the best known in Chile. Geography was never the real explanation anyway. A brewery at that latitude existed because wool, mutton and gold made nineteenth-century Punta Arenas a wealthy port, and a port with money and imported malt gets itself a brewery. The southernmost claim has always been a marketing line rather than a fact about latitude, and the only reason it survived is that nobody in Punta Arenas had any reason to check Ushuaia.

The Patagonia Mix-Up

The beer called Patagonia is Argentine. It is brewed in San Carlos de Bariloche by Cervecería Patagonia, a company that was bought by Cervecería y Maltería Quilmes, the Argentine business of Anheuser-Busch InBev, and it has never been made by CCU. The Anwandter family, who genuinely do belong in this story, belong to Valdivia, in a different country and a different lake district from the brewery that borrowed the region's name. The confusion is easy to understand from a shelf. Patagonia is the marketing name for the far south of two countries, so a beer carrying it could be Chilean or Argentine depending on who bottled it, and in this case the answer is the one almost every article gets wrong.

What The Southern Beers Do Differently

The water in the south is soft and cold, which flatters a lager the way hard water flatters an English pale ale, and most small breweries in the lakes and the fjords brew to that preference rather than against it. Where they get distinctive is in what goes into the kettle after the boil. Mate, the same leaf the region drinks by the litre through a metal straw, turns up in amber ales and porters. Calafate, the small dark barberry of the Patagonian scrub, has been used in beer the way it is used in juices, jams and liqueurs. None of that is a novelty trick in a place where both ingredients are simply what grows.

Treat The Online Counts With Care

Search for Chilean craft beer and you will run into confident figures: hundreds of microbreweries nationally, dozens packed into a single province, a brewers' association founded in a tidy year with partnerships to Bavarian universities. Those numbers are repeated everywhere and sourced almost nowhere, so it is worth being clear about which claims about the region actually hold up. Chile's market is dominated by a handful of large brands. The small breweries concentrate in the south. Valdivia is the centre of gravity, and Kunstmann is the one name with real export distribution. That is a smaller statement than the one usually made, and it is the one that survives a fact check.

Frequently Asked Questions About Beer In Chile

Is Cerveza Patagonia a Chilean beer?

No, and the mix-up is common enough to be worth stating plainly. Cerveza Patagonia is brewed in San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina, by Cervecería Patagonia, which is owned by Cervecería y Maltería Quilmes, the Argentine operation of Anheuser-Busch InBev. Nothing in that chain runs through CCU or through the Chilean brewing families, and a Chilean beer list will not carry it.

What does schop mean in Chile?

A schop is a glass of draft beer, the everyday order in Valdivia and much of the south, borrowed from the German Schoppen. Bars keep the pint and half-litre glasses chilled for it, and the word is the most visible reminder that this part of Chile was settled by brewers rather than by vineyard owners.

Which Chilean brewery is worth looking for?

Kunstmann is the realistic answer, because it is the southern brewery that has actually exported, and its unfiltered lager and dunkel are the styles Valdivia is known for. Beyond that, expect to drink where you stand. The small breweries of Aysén and Magallanes were built around taprooms and tourist seasons, and very little of what they make ever reaches a container ship.

Did German settlers invent brewing in Chile?

Fermented drinks were being made in Chile long before any German ship arrived, including apple chicha and guiñe, a Mapuche drink of the murtilla berry. What the settlers brought was bottom fermentation, cold storage and the lager habit, which is the tradition that gave Valdivia its name and the reason the city's beer still tastes Central European.

What A British Columbia Drinker Should Take From This

The thread running through southern Chile is the one your own beer culture is tied to: soft-water lager, German styles, and small breweries started by people who liked a beer they could not buy locally. The difference is what reaches you. Chilean names travel less widely than Argentine ones, so a bottle with Patagonia on the label is almost always from Bariloche, and the Valdivia beer worth hunting is a Kunstmann. Knowing which is which matters more than the tasting notes, because the two countries brew closely related versions of the same German inheritance and sell them under the same borrowed word.

Argentina: Where Malbec And Ale Actually Meet

The fusion promised in this title is real, but it happens in the tank rather than in your mouth, and knowing which Argentine beers actually put grape and grain together is the useful part. Argentina brews mostly lager and brews a great deal of it, so the country's most interesting beer experiments come from an obvious place, which is that its agriculture is wine: brewers in Mendoza ferment with grape must, work beer in retired French oak that held red wine, and pitch wine yeast on purpose. Most writing on this subject spends its length on vineyard history under a headline about beer, which is the wrong way round.

A stemmed tulip glass of dark amber beer with a pale head, standing on a stone ledge among two bunches of ripe purple grapes and vine leaves, with rows of a vineyard and dry brown hills behind under a bright sky

Argentina Is A Lager Country First

Quilmes is the name on most menus, a pale lager brewed in the town of Quilmes just south of Buenos Aires since 1888, when the German immigrant Otto Bemberg founded the brewery there. It was the largest in the country by 1920 and it still is, which tells you more about Argentine drinking than any tourism brochure. Bemberg was not a curiosity either, since German, Swiss and Austrian settlers brought lager brewing to several provinces, and Otto Schneider founded a brewery of his own in Santa Fe in 1912. The everyday order is a very cold, clean, lightly hopped lager, and fernet, the Italian bitter that Argentines drink cut with cola, tends to arrive after the beer.

The wine history this subject needs is one paragraph, not two chapters. Malbec comes from the south-west of France, where it was already grown around Cahors, and the French agronomist Michel Aimé Pouget is usually credited with carrying cuttings to Mendoza in 1853, at the prompting of Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, then a provincial official there. That is half a century earlier than the late nineteenth century you will still read in some places. Argentina now grows more Malbec than any other country, and Mendoza province accounts for most of its wine, which is the whole background required to understand why a Mendoza brewer reaches for grapes.

Patagonia Is Where The Ale Tradition Lives

The town to know is San Carlos de Bariloche on Lago Nahuel Huapi, in Río Negro province, settled heavily by central European immigrants and still built around chocolate, trout and breweries. Local histories date Bariloche's first home-brewed beer to 1927, when Esteban Zufiaur and Juan Antonio Leberle made a batch called Parque Nacional, and Blest, which opened there in 1996, is generally credited as the country's first brewpub. Further south in the same province, El Bolsón has the stranger and better story: a German immigrant named Otto Tipp arrived in 1890, started what is believed to be the town's first brewery, and taught local growers to cultivate hops, which is why that town now runs a hop harvest festival every February.

The consequence is that describing Argentine craft beer as newly arrived is simply wrong, and older writing on the subject does it repeatedly. Patagonia had been brewing for eighty years before the first brewpub opened, and the modern scene is a later wave rather than a first one. The economic collapse of 2001 and 2002, which made imported goods scarce and expensive, gave the cervecerías artesanales a market they had not created for themselves, and by 2010 the Oxford Companion to Beer was counting around 70 microbreweries nationally. Buenos Aires then added the hop-forward end of the range through the 2010s, so the country now has an industrial lager base, a German-influenced Patagonian middle and a capital-city craft layer, which is a normal three-tier scene rather than an emerging one.

Where The Grape Goes Into The Beer

Mendoza is where the title of this article earns its keep. A handful of brewers there work in what is loosely called the grape ale manner, and the most documented is Chachingo, which puts grapes and grape juice into beer in every state available to it, whole clusters, freshly crushed must, finished wine, along with wine yeast, ageing in used French oak that previously held red wine, and a second fermentation in the bottle the way a sparkling wine maker does it. At the harvest they lean on cheap trellis varieties such as Criolla and Moscatel for colour and fruit, and one recent version was a six percent grape IPA built on Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. Another spent a year on whole-cluster Cabernet Franc in ex-red-wine oak and a second year in bottle.

There is an industrial version of the same idea. Mendoza's wine economy produces concentrated grape must in very large volume, and in the mid-2000s a Mendoza brewery spent about a year developing a beer fermented on surplus grape concentrate rather than on barley alone, which is a genuinely local answer to a question nobody outside a wine region would think to ask.

What the fruit does to the beer is worth understanding before you order it, because it is not beer with juice added. Grape sugars are almost fully fermentable, so must thins the body and lifts alcohol while taking malt sweetness with it, the skins and stems contribute tannin and a peppery red-fruit note, and wine yeast brings its own aromatics on top. The result is drier and more wine-like than the beer it started as, which is why the good examples are drunk young, cold and with food in front of them.

The British Columbia Version Of The Same Idea

None of this is remote from a BC drinker, because the two regions share their geography in miniature. The dry interior east of the Coast Mountains and the Argentine side of the Andes around Mendoza are both rain-shadow countryside dependent on snowmelt irrigation, with hot days and cold nights that hold acidity in fruit, and in both places vineyards, orchards and breweries compete for the same land and the same barrels. That is why the Argentine trick has shown up here. A number of British Columbia breweries now ferment with grape must or with pomace, the skins and seeds left after pressing, and age the result in foeders and retired wine barrels, with one Abbotsford operation having released a long run of grape ales and others leaving a base beer on the skins for a week to draw out colour for a rosé-style beer.

The hop parallel runs the same way. El Bolsón's February harvest festival is celebrating a crop that is small, local and expensive next to bulk hops from the Yakima Valley, which is precisely the position the hop yards around Chilliwack and in the Southern Interior are in. If you want to taste the Mendoza idea without importing anything, ask a local brewery what it has on grape must and drink that while it is young.

Ordering Without Guessing

If you wantOrderWhy
The everyday defaultQuilmes in a glass rather than a bucketCold, clean and what almost everyone else is drinking
The immigrant traditionA Bariloche lager or dunkelweizenCentral European settlement is the strongest beer story in Patagonia
The local specialityA Mendoza grape aleThe one style that could only come out of a wine economy
Something with charA dry stout or porterRoast malt and fat belong together
The barrel ideaA strong dark beer aged in wine oakRetired French oak does what chips cannot

Asado, And What To Drink With It

Argentine cooking runs on beef, and the pairing logic for beer is not the one on the wine list. A ribeye with coarse salt wants carbonation and bitterness to cut the fat, which is what a German-style lager and a dry stout both do well, and what a low-alcohol wheat beer does less well. Chimichurri carries vinegar, garlic and oregano, so it is already doing the cutting work that a bitter beer would only repeat, which argues for something cleaner and colder alongside it. Empanadas are saltier and fattier again, and a softer, fruitier hazy IPA or a grape ale works there, because a little sweetness and tannin match the pastry. For the alfajor at the end, dulce de leche between two biscuits, the honest answer is that coffee improves it more than any beer will, though a milk stout is a respectable second choice.

One warning about service, which matters more than the ordering. Beer in Argentina is poured very cold in a country that is not trying to make you taste the beer, so a Patagonian ale or a barrel-aged stout will arrive at a temperature that mutes it. Ask for it in a glass, keep it out of the ice, and give it five minutes before the first sip.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do grape ales taste sweet?

Usually the opposite, which surprises people. Grape sugars ferment out very completely, so a beer built on must finishes dry and thin unless the brewer stops the ferment or adds sweetness back, and the fruit character you notice in the glass is mostly aroma from the skins plus whatever wine was blended in at the end. A grape ale is closer in structure to a dry white wine than to a fruit beer, and that dryness is the reason brewers put them next to food.

Does Argentina really drink more wine than beer?

That is the reputation and it is partly earned, since Malbec is the export and the identity and wine is what the country argues about, but it is not a dependable description of any individual glass. Nobody has published a figure on relative drinking that is worth printing here, so the useful planning fact is simpler: wine is the drink with prestige attached and beer is the drink with a pizza attached, and both are on almost any table.

Can I buy Argentine beer in British Columbia?

Sporadically at best, and not reliably enough to plan a meal around. Argentine beer is brewed overwhelmingly for its own domestic market, the exported volume is small next to the wine trade, and what does arrive tends to surface in restaurant channels rather than on a liquor store shelf. The style is easy to find locally in any case, since the grape-ale idea has crossed the Pacific already, so track down a BC brewer working on must rather than hunting for an import.

Keep The Fusion, Drop The Wine History

Argentina does not need a wine article wearing a beer headline, and it does not need the fusion pitch removed either, because the overlap is genuinely there in Mendoza's tanks and now in British Columbia ones. Order the cold lager with the pizza, save the barrel-aged stout for after the asado, drink the grape ale young with something fatty, and let the Malbec go to the people arguing about it. That is a beer country worth taking seriously, and it is a much shorter story than the one the vineyards would have told.

Saturday, May 6, 2023

New Zealand Beer: Aromatic Hops, Not Hoppy Pilsners

New Zealand's contribution to world beer is aroma, and it is not pilsner. The country's hop yards sit at the top of the South Island around Nelson and Tasman Bay, and the varieties bred there, principally Nelson Sauvin, Motueka and Riwaka, are valued for white-grape, gooseberry and lime characters that European noble hops do not produce. What New Zealand actually drinks at home is pale lager, and the hoppy Kiwi pilsner is a small and slightly awkward corner of that scene, which is worth sorting out before you order one.

A brown bird with a long curved beak standing on a rock beside a tall glass of golden beer under a white head, in tussock grass with forested hills and a small lake behind

Order by the Hop, Not the Style Name

  • Ask for a pale ale or an IPA rather than a hoppy pilsner, because the reputation rests on aroma hops that need a fuller body to sit in.
  • Reach for Nelson Sauvin for white grape, gooseberry and peach, and for Motueka when you want the Kiwi hop a lager drinker would enjoy.
  • Treat native hops as a marketing phrase, since the hop plant is not indigenous and the plants that are native are flavourings rather than hops.
  • Sort the country by its hops rather than its pilsner, because the everyday beer at home is an international pale lager.

Where The Reputation Actually Comes From

Commercial hop growing in New Zealand is more than a century old and is concentrated in a small area of the Tasman and Nelson region, where settlers from England and Germany found the combination they were looking for: long summer daylight, mild maritime temperatures, reliable rain, and a pest and disease load well below what European growers carry. Those conditions produce an aromatic hop rather than a bittering one. The industry spent decades as a high-alpha commodity supplier and then deliberately moved in the other direction, breeding for oil and aroma instead of strength.

Three names carry most of the reputation. Nelson Sauvin takes its name from the town and from the Sauvignon Blanc grape, and gives the white-wine, gooseberry, peach and apricot character that made New Zealand hops a category of their own. Motueka, originally distributed under the reference B Saaz, comes from Saaz parentage and offers lime zest and lemon with a soft tropical edge. Riwaka also descends from Saaz genetics through the Riwaka research station, and is notable for a thiol character of passionfruit and lemongrass in a variety that is still hard to buy in quantity. Two of these three are descendants of the hop that Czech pilsner is built on, selected in a different climate until they stopped tasting like it.

One phrase needs taking apart while we are here, because it appears on this subject constantly: native New Zealand hops. The hop plant is not indigenous to New Zealand. Every variety grown there is a cultivated breeding line, and the genuinely native plants that occasionally appear in Kiwi beer are flavourings rather than hops, kawakawa leaf being the usual one. Those belong in specialty brews, not in anything resembling a pilsner.

What New Zealand Actually Drinks

The overwhelming majority of beer brewed in New Zealand is lager, pale or amber, sitting between 4 and 5 percent alcohol, and the market has long been split between two large brewers. DB Breweries, now part of Heineken, makes DB Export, Tui and Monteith's. Lion makes Steinlager, Speight's, Canterbury, Mac's and Emerson's. Those names cover most of what is poured in the country, and they are international pale lagers rather than pilsners, whatever a label says. New Zealand is genuinely a lager country, which is what makes the pilsner framing so easy to reach for and so easy to get wrong.

Why A Hoppy Kiwi Pilsner Is Hard To Make On Purpose

A pilsner or an international pale lager is judged on cleanliness, and the written guidelines for the category say plainly that strong flavours are a fault. Nelson Sauvin does not do subtle. Put it into a lager at the rate a brewer would use in a pale ale and you get a beer that reads winey and unbalanced against a thin, dry body, and lager yeast will not add the layer of esters an ale yeast uses to marry a large aroma to the malt. This is why the Kiwi hop reputation was built almost entirely on ales.

That is a description of the rules rather than a claim that nobody breaks them. Panhead Custom Ales in Upper Hutt brews Port Road Pilsner at 5.0 percent, and Panhead sits inside the Lion group rather than operating as an independent. Garage Project in Wellington is one of the country's better-known experimental breweries, and its best-known beer, Hāpi Daze, shows what a Kiwi hop bill looks like when it is aimed at aroma rather than restraint: a pale ale at 4.6 percent, brewed with New Zealand barley and carrying Motueka, Wai-iti, Riwaka and Nelson Sauvin. The name plays on hāpi, the Māori transliteration of the English word hop. It is a pale ale and not a pilsner, and the hops in it are cultivated breeding rather than anything gathered from the bush.

How The Hop Varieties Behave In The Glass

VarietyWhat it bringsWhere it earns its place
Nelson SauvinWhite grape, gooseberry, peach, apricotPale ale and IPA, as a late addition or a dry hop
MotuekaLime zest and lemon, on Saaz parentageThe one Kiwi hop that genuinely suits a pilsner-type beer
RiwakaPassionfruit and lemongrass from thiol chemistryAromatic dry hopping, while the limited supply lasts
Wai-itiDelicate floral and stone fruit, very low cohumuloneBlended into a lager or a wheat beer that needs softness
NectaronIntense tropical fruit from the newer breeding workHazy and heavily hopped ales

The Pacific Northwest Kinship

For a drinker in British Columbia the useful connection is climate rather than commerce. New Zealand, the Fraser Valley and the Yakima Valley all grow hops in maritime or near-maritime conditions with long summer days, and the American and Kiwi varieties that came out of those areas are now used side by side in the same West Coast pale ale. The generation of brewers here that turned away from malty amber lager and toward aromatic hopping was doing the same thing in Auckland and Wellington around the same time. It also means a shopper in this province can find Nelson Sauvin and Motueka named on a local label often enough to put them directly against the Cascade and Centennial they are competing with. That last comparison is the useful one, and it cuts against the way both countries talk about themselves. A West Coast pale ale built on Yakima or Nelson hops is a single product made on two sides of the Pacific, and a shelf in Vancouver that stocks only the Cascade is making a statement about taste rather than about geography.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does New Zealand Brew Pilsners?

Yes, and the everyday lagers that dominate the country are close cousins of the style. What New Zealand is not known for is the hoppy pilsner as a category. Its global reputation rests on aroma hops, and its best-known craft beers are pale ales and IPAs, because those styles carry the body and the yeast character needed to support a large Kiwi hop aroma. A pilsner brewed with Nelson Sauvin is a deliberately out-of-style beer, and a perfectly reasonable thing to make as long as nobody calls it traditional.

How Many Breweries Are There In New Zealand?

Around two hundred is the figure the industry body uses, and the honest addition to that number is that it is drifting down rather than up. An independent count in the middle of 2025 put the operating breweries at 184, against roughly 208 in 2023, which mirrors what has been happening to taprooms across North America. A claim that the country has more than two hundred and is still exploding has aged out.

Did Yeastie Boys And BrewDog Make A Beer Together?

Not in the way that claim usually gets repeated. Digital IPA is a Yeastie Boys recipe from Dunedin, and BrewDog bottled it in Britain under a contract-brewing arrangement rather than co-brewing it with anyone. That arrangement ended in 2017, so listing BrewDog as a current New Zealand partner is wrong, and calling a bottling contract a collaboration stretches the word.

Are New Zealand Hops Worth Seeking Out?

Yes, and the easiest way in is a pale ale hopped with Nelson Sauvin followed by a beer driven by Motueka, so the contrast lands in one sitting. Motueka is the one to look for if you want the Kiwi version of something a lager drinker would enjoy, because its Saaz parentage keeps the lime note tight instead of turning it tropical. Riwaka and Nectaron are worth chasing when you find them, since both are harder to source than the two better-known varieties.

Judge The Country By The Hops

The correction is worth making because the real story is better than the wrong one. A small country at the top of the South Island grew a handful of hop varieties that changed what pale ales taste like on three continents, and it did so by breeding for aroma in a climate that carries fewer pests than Europe does. New Zealand's own beer is mostly lager, its craft scene is built on hops rather than on a malt tradition, and its pilsners are a genuine but minor part of the picture. Ask for the Nelson Sauvin, notice how much of the glass is fruit and how little is bitterness, and you are drinking the thing the country is actually famous for.

Mexico's Home Brew: The Lager Giants And The Craft Beer Rising Behind Them

If you order a beer in Mexico and it arrives pale, light and almost flavourless, you have had the beer most of the country drinks, because light lager built for volume is what Mexico actually brews in bulk. That is the honest headline, and it is also why the interesting part of Mexican beer is not the bottle in your hand but what a small, determined group of brewers is doing just above it. This article is about that second layer: the corporate lager that dominates by volume, the specialty and craft tier sitting on top of it, where the barley comes from, the styles and festivals you can actually walk into, and what it means for you as a visitor ordering a pint or someone trying to bring a bottle home to Canada.

A narrow cobblestone street in a colonial Mexican town lined with brightly painted stucco buildings in magenta, purple, orange and turquoise, a woman in a colourful woven shawl and long patterned skirt walking away from the camera, and rows of handwoven textiles in red, orange and blue hanging from a pink wall on the right under a clear blue sky

What To Know Before You Order In Mexico

  • Expect the default pour to be a light lager brewed for volume, because that is what the domestic market was built around and it is drunk in far greater quantity inside Mexico than abroad.
  • Ask the bar what it considers its own beer, since a room that takes beer seriously will pour something local and seasonal and will usually tell you what it is.
  • Look for a bar with named handles rather than a plastic menu, because that is the fastest way into the craft tier sitting above the mass lager.
  • Check the border rules before you pack, because the personal alcohol exemption only applies once you have been outside Canada for 48 hours or more.

The Lager That Is Actually Mexican

Mexico is one of the largest beer producers in the world, and the beer that makes it that size is a light, adjunct-supported lager. The reason this style won is a century old and entirely practical rather than romantic. German and Central European brewers brought lager technology to Mexico in the nineteenth century, and over time the local market settled on a cold, clean, light-bodied lager that pairs with hot food and a hot climate. Everything about it, the pale malt, the corn or rice adjunct, the restrained hopping, the high carbonation, was aimed at one outcome: a beer that disappears easily and costs little. If you want to understand the mechanics of that style in detail, our guide to light Mexican lagers covers the recipe and the export lager, which is a different focus from this one.

The point worth holding onto is that the dominant Mexican lager is a domestic product, not merely an export. It is what is poured from a tap in a neighbourhood cantina in Guadalajara or a plastic cup at a street stand, and it is brewed and drunk in far larger volume inside Mexico than anywhere else. When a beer is described as Mexican abroad, it is usually the export face of this domestic style, so recognizing the home version is the first step toward understanding the rest of the country's beer scene.

The Craft And Specialty Tier Above The Lager

Sitting above the light lager, and much smaller by volume, is a specialty and craft tier that has grown steadily in Mexican cities over the past two decades. The big domestic brewers themselves began releasing higher-gravity, hoppier, barrel-aged and seasonal beers to compete, and alongside them a layer of independent breweries has appeared, concentrated in Mexico City but with outposts in Guadalajara, Monterrey, Puebla, Querétaro and elsewhere. These independent breweries work with local and regional ingredients, experiment with styles that do not fit the mass lager mould, and often present their beer as a deliberate contrast to it.

The craft scene here is younger and smaller than the one in Canada or the United States, and it faces the same problem every national beer market faces when a light, cheap, cold lager owns the volume: the local palate has been trained on very simple beer. What that produces is a craft tier that leans hard on flavour intensity and on styles the domestic market already understands, which means bold pale ales, India pale ales, stouts and Belgian-inspired ales sell more readily in Mexico than subtle session lagers do. When you walk into a Mexican craft taproom expecting delicate European pale ales, you may instead find aggressive West Coast hops, which is not a mistake but a market reality.

Where The Barley And Hops Come From

The sourcing question is more interesting than it looks, because it is uneven. Mexico grows malting barley domestically, with major producing states including Hidalgo, and the large brewers have invested in malting facilities to secure a local supply of the grain that underpins the dominant lager. So the base ingredient of the big Mexican lager is, at least in part, Mexican barley. Hops are a different story. Mexico does not grow hops in commercially significant quantities, so essentially all of the hop character in Mexican beer, whether it is the restrained hint in a mass lager or the aggressive American varieties in a craft IPA, comes from imported leaf, mostly from the United States, Germany and elsewhere. Understanding that split explains a lot: the fermentation and the grain of Mexican lager are local, while the bitterness and the aroma in a Mexican craft beer are largely an import.

For a craft brewer in Mexico this is a mixed blessing. A dependable local barley supply makes large-scale lager easy, while imported hops mean the hop character in a Mexican pale ale or IPA is a deliberate choice tied to the international hop market rather than to local terroir. It is also why a Mexican craft beer can taste startlingly Californian, since the same high-alpha American varieties that dominate North American craft brewing are what most Mexican independent brewers reach for.

Festivals And The On-The-Ground Scene

Mexico's taprooms and specialty beer bars are the part a visitor can actually reach, and the fastest way into the craft tier is to look for a bar that keeps cask or keg handles with names rather than a plastic menu of one lager. Beer festivals, which run in the larger cities through the year and cluster in the cooler months, are the other route, and they are where the independent breweries pour side by side with the macro brands. We do not name a specific festival or date here, because the lineups and dates shift year to year, so check what is on in the city you are actually in rather than trusting a printed date. What is reliable is the shape of the scene: a growing number of taprooms, a real willingness among drinkers to pay for a better beer, and a domestic craft tier that is now established enough to be the point of visiting.

What It Means If You Are Ordering In Mexico

Your practical move as a visitor is to walk past the obvious lager and ask what the taproom or bar considers its own or its most interesting beer. Bars that take beer seriously will pour something local and often something seasonal or cask, and they are usually happy to tell you what it is. If you have no other guidance, order a local pale ale or a local amber to see what the domestic craft tier actually tastes like, rather than defaulting to the export lager you can already get at home. You will learn more from one unfamiliar local beer than from a case of the beer the airport sells you.

Bringing Beer Back To Canada

You can bring Mexican beer home, and the rules are clearer than most travellers expect. If you have been outside Canada for 48 hours or more, you are allowed one alcohol exemption per person, and for beer and ale that exemption is up to 8.5 litres, which works out to roughly two dozen standard bottles or cans, free of duty and taxes. The important detail is that the beer allowance is one of three choices rather than a combined total, so you cannot also claim the wine or spirits allowance on the same trip. If you have been away for less than 48 hours, there is no personal alcohol exemption at all, and anything you bring is subject to duty and taxes. If you stay longer, the allowance rises: 17 litres of beer after seven days away and 25.5 litres after thirty days, and the same one-of-three rule applies at each level.

Two more limits sit on top of the federal exemption. Anything beyond your allowance is taxed and dutied, and your total has to stay within the liquor limit of the province or territory where you enter, so bringing more than the province allows is a separate problem from the federal one. You must also be at or above the legal drinking age where you enter, which is 19 in British Columbia. The practical upshot for a beer lover is that a normal holiday haul of Mexican craft bottles stays well inside the exemption, and the 48-hour clock, not the volume, is the thing most people get wrong. If you want the current numbers rather than this summary, the Canada Border Services Agency sets them and they do change, so check the CBSA page before you pack.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is all Mexican beer a light lager?

No, but a very large share of what is brewed and drunk inside Mexico is a light, adjunct-supported lager, because that is what the domestic market was built around. Above that tier sits a real specialty and craft scene with pale ales, India pale ales, stouts, Belgian-inspired ales and barrel-aged beer, concentrated in the larger cities. The distinction between the export lager you know at home and the domestic brewing culture is the subject of our guide to light Mexican lagers, and this article is about everything that sits above the lager rather than the lager itself.

Does Mexico grow its own hops?

Not in commercially meaningful quantities, so the hop flavour in essentially all Mexican beer is imported. Mexico does grow malting barley, which is why the grain under the domestic lager can be local, but the hops, whether a trace in a mass lager or the heavy American varieties in a craft India pale ale, come from abroad. That split is the reason a Mexican craft beer can taste distinctly North American despite being brewed on Mexican soil with Mexican barley.

How much beer can I bring back to Canada from Mexico?

If you have been away 48 hours or more, one person may bring up to 8.5 litres of beer or ale, roughly two dozen standard bottles or cans, free of duty and taxes, and that beer allowance is one of three choices rather than something you can combine with wine or spirits. Away for less than 48 hours, there is no free personal alcohol allowance and you pay duty and taxes on what you bring. On top of the federal rules, the total must stay within the provincial or territorial liquor limit of where you enter, and you must meet the legal drinking age there, which is 19 in British Columbia. Verify the current figures with the Canada Border Services Agency before you travel.

Is the craft beer in Mexico the same as North American craft beer?

It is younger and it faces a different constraint, because the domestic market has been trained on very light, clean lager. To win drinkers over, Mexican craft brewers tend to lead with intensity, so bold pale ales, heavily hopped India pale ales, stouts and Belgian-inspired ales are more common and more approachable here than delicate session lagers. The same imported American and German hop varieties are widely used, which is why the flavours can feel familiar even in a beer you have never seen before.

Order One Beer You Have Not Seen Before

Mexico's own beer story is not the export lager on a beach, it is the quiet craft tier working just above a very large lager culture, and the way into it is to walk past the obvious bottle and ask a bar what it thinks is good. One local pale ale, one trip to a taproom, or one festival season, will teach you more about how Mexico actually brews than any amount of reading about it. That is also the version you can bring home, since a normal holiday of Mexican craft bottles sits comfortably inside Canada's alcohol exemption as long as you have been away more than a couple of days.