Showing posts with label sour beer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sour beer. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 9, 2023

Flanders Red Ale: The Burgundy of Belgium Comes From a Town Brewery, Not a Monastery

Flanders red ale is a tart, wine-like brown-red beer from West Flanders in the west of Belgium, and the beer that defines it is Rodenbach, brewed in the town of Roeselare by a secular family brewery rather than by monks in an abbey. It is soured by a maintained house culture of yeast and bacteria, aged for months to years in enormous old oak vats called foeders, and then blended from young and old beer before bottling, which is why the finished glass has both a sharp acidity and a layered sweetness. If you have been told the style is a monastic survival, that story is wrong, and the real one is more interesting.

A stemmed goblet of dark red-brown beer with a pale head stands on a wooden table, with oak barrels and a red and yellow striped flag behind it and a small bottle to the left

Where the Style Actually Came From

Rodenbach has been brewing in Roeselare since 1821, and the sour red method the brewery is known for is traced to Eugène Rodenbach, who brought back oak aging and blending from England in the 1870s. That is a nineteenth-century industrial story about a town brewery, a family and a technique imported deliberately, and there is no monastery anywhere in it. The monks-in-a-scriptorium version of the style's origin shows up in marketing more often than in any brewing record, and it is worth dropping, because the actual history explains the beer better.

What the region did contribute was a habit of drinking this beer as an everyday thing rather than as a special occasion. West Flanders is a farming and industrial part of Belgium, and the sour red beers of its pubs were local and cheap, sold for a single pour in a small bottle alongside the wine-sized ones meant to be shared at a table. That split between the quick glass and the kept one is still how the style is packaged, and it is the reason a bottle shop will often carry two formats of the same beer at very different prices.

Foeders Rather Than Barrels

The vessel is the single most misunderstood part of the style, and the word is foeder, not folder. A foeder is a very large wooden vat, closer to a bath than to a barrel, and Rodenbach keeps something in the region of three hundred of them in its aging hall, with some of the oldest predating 1870. Their size matters: a big vat has a low ratio of wood surface to beer, so the oak does not dominate the way a small barrel would, and the beer sits in a stable environment for years instead of months.

The other thing size tells you is that the oak is not there to flavour the beer. These vats are decades or centuries old and have been used for hundreds of fillings, so they give up almost no vanilla or toast, and the faint sweet, dried-fruit and balsamic character in the glass comes from what has been living in the wood rather than from the wood itself. Anyone describing this style as tasting of new oak has either had a badly made version or has been thinking of a whisky barrel.

A Pitched Culture, Not Wild Air

This is the correction that matters most for anyone trying to brew the style or explain it. Flanders red is not made by spontaneous fermentation. The acidity comes from a house culture that the brewery maintains and pitches deliberately, a blend of brewing yeast with lactic bacteria and Brettanomyces working together over a long aging, and Rodenbach has supplied that culture to other breweries. Nothing about it depends on the local air, which is why the style can be made faithfully outside West Flanders and why the talk about terroir attached to it is really about a hundred and fifty years of housekeeping in one brewery.

How It Differs From Lambic and Oud Bruin

Lambic is the Belgian sour that really is made by wild fermentation, cooled overnight in an open shallow vessel so the air of the Zenne valley can inoculate it, and brewed with a large proportion of unmalted wheat and old hops. Flanders red does neither thing, so the two styles share their acidity and very little else, and a reader who has had a good gueuze should not approach a Flanders red expecting the same barnyard and lemon.

Oud bruin, the brown ale from the eastern half of Flanders, is the closer relative and the more useful comparison. It is soured with lactic bacteria and aged as well, but usually for less time and with the acidity rounded off by caramel and a residual sweetness, so it drinks nutty and soft where a Flanders red drinks sharp, dry and tannic. If you are trying to find out whether you like sour beer at all, oud bruin is the gentler door and Flanders red is the one that tells you what you actually think.

What the Glass Should Taste Like

Pour it and you get a clear garnet to dark brown beer with a thin, quickly fading head and a real spritz on the tongue. The aroma is sour cherry, redcurrant, raisin, brown sugar, a little balsamic vinegar and a light leather or orange-peel note from the Brettanomyces. On the palate the acidity arrives first, then a caramel sweetness underneath that stops it being merely sharp, then a dry, tannic finish that is the closest thing in beer to the grip at the end of a young red wine. Alcohol sits between about 4.6 and 6.5 percent, and bitterness from hops is nearly absent, because the sourness is doing the balancing work that hops do elsewhere.

The two bottles most people meet are a fair illustration of the range. Rodenbach's own versions lead with the acidity and finish dry, while Duchesse de Bourgogne, made by Verhaeghe, leans much sweeter, with a rounded caramel and brown-sugar character that makes it the easier first glass and, for a lot of people, the easier mistake, because it is a sweeter beer than the style description implies.

Buying, Serving and Drinking It

  • Look for the wine-sized 750 ml bottles, since the aged versions are bottled that way and one of them is more beer than two people will drink in an evening, which is worth knowing before you commit to the price.
  • Serve it cool rather than cold, somewhere between 8 and 12 degrees Celsius, because the acidity turns hard and one-dimensional when it is fridge-cold and the aromatics need a little warmth to show.
  • Use a wine glass rather than a pint glass, since the head is delicate, the aromatics are wine-like and a tapered bowl holds far more of both than a straight-sided one.
  • Treat the vinegar note as a feature and check the bottle for how much of it you can stand, because a Flanders red that has been kept warm will tip further toward acetic and there is no fixing it in the glass.
  • Buy the smaller 250 or 330 ml bottles when a shop has them, because they let you try two versions of the style for the price of one large bottle and they are far easier to finish at the temperature the beer wants.

With food the acidity behaves like a squeeze of lemon or a splash of balsamic, so it wants richness to cut. Braised beef, duck, a steak with an onion and beer sauce, pork in a sweet-sour preparation and a hard aged cheese all work, and the same logic explains why the beer is used in cooking in the region at all. The one thing to avoid is a delicate dish, because the beer will flatten anything subtle on the plate and leave both of them tasting of nothing.

In this province the honest advice is to shop rather than to plan. The Belgian bottles come in irregular allocations through the public stores and the private retailers that carry specialty stock, so search the catalogue before you drive anywhere, and expect the 750 ml format to be more common than the small one. If you find nothing Flemish, the local alternative is worth a look, because a growing number of breweries in British Columbia and the wider Pacific Northwest now keep their own oak vats and put out lactic sours in something like this shape, often with local fruit, and a bottle poured within a few kilometres of where it was brewed is a fair trade for one that has crossed an ocean in a warm container.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Flanders red ale actually sour?

Yes, and it is the lactic acidity of a soured beer rather than the sharp lemon of a fruit beer, backed by a faint vinegar edge from the aging. The sweetness people notice in the same glass is real as well, which comes from the blending: young beer that still has residual sugar is mixed with old, highly acidic beer, and the tension between the two is the style rather than a flaw in it.

What is a foeder and why does it matter so much?

A foeder is a very large old oak vat, and it matters because it is where the souring happens over years rather than weeks. The wood is neutral by the time it is doing this job, so the vat is a surface for the brewery's resident bacteria and yeast to live on and a stable, slowly breathing environment for the beer, which is something a stainless tank cannot copy and a small new barrel would overwhelm.

Did monks invent Flanders red ale?

No, the style is a secular, commercial tradition from the breweries of West Flanders, and the version worth telling is that Rodenbach in Roeselare has brewed there since 1821 and developed its oak-aged sour red method after Eugène Rodenbach returned from England in the 1870s. Monasteries are central to the story of Trappist beer and to some older farmhouse brewing, and this is not one of those stories.

Can you age a bottle of Flanders red?

You can, and it will change more than it will improve for most people. The acidity is already high and the beer is blended to be balanced on the day it is bottled, so extra time in the bottle tends to sharpen it and push it toward vinegar while the fruit dries out. Keep one for a year in a cool dark place out of curiosity, drink the rest fresh, and do not buy a case of it expecting a wine collection.

Is Duchesse de Bourgogne a brewery or a beer?

It is a beer, made by the Verhaeghe brewery, and the confusion is common enough to be worth stating plainly because the bottle gives the abbey-sounding name far more prominence than the brewer's. Duchesse is a blend of young and old beer aged in oak and sits at the sweet end of the style, so it is a good introduction and a poor example of what the sharper Roeselare versions taste like.

Buy Two Bottles and Pour Them Side by Side

The fastest way to understand the style is to buy one dry, one sweet and nothing else, pour them into the same shape of glass at cellar temperature and drink them in that order. You will find out within a single evening whether you want the acidity that made the style famous or the caramel that made it saleable, and after that the shelf stops being confusing, because the two ends of the range are easy to tell apart once you have tasted them next to each other.

Friday, May 5, 2023

Spontaneous Fermentation: How Lambic and Wild Ale Are Actually Made

Spontaneous fermentation means a brewer cools boiled wort in an open, shallow vessel and lets the air do the pitching, so the microbes that turn it into beer arrive on their own rather than out of a packet. That one decision separates lambic from every other family of sour beer, and it is why the style is tied to a particular place and a particular time of year in a way a kettle-soured pale ale never is. Most of what is sold as a wild ale is not spontaneous at all, which is worth knowing before you spend money on a bottle expecting the taste of one.

A rustic still life of many glasses of beer in shades from cloudy pale gold to deep brown, set on a dark wooden table with blackberries, grapes, figs and halved blood oranges, with barrels and bottles behind

What Spontaneous Fermentation Actually Means

Boiling sterilizes wort, so anything alive in it afterwards got there on purpose or by accident. A conventional brewer adds a cultured yeast of known behaviour and controls the temperature. A lambic maker instead runs the hot wort into a coolship, a shallow open trough with a great deal of surface area, and leaves it overnight with the windows of the brewing hall open. Cold night air draws the heat out of the liquid and carries in whatever lives in the building and the valley around it, and the next morning the wort is pumped into barrels and left alone.

None of this is a leap of faith. Wild yeast and lactic-acid bacteria are present in every brewery, and the reason most brewers spend so much effort keeping them out is exactly that they work. What a lambic maker is doing is choosing an environment and then managing it, because a spontaneous fermentation that nobody watches turns into vinegar.

Why Lambic Is Tied to One Valley

Spontaneously fermented beer is made in only a handful of places, and the classic one is the Zenne valley west and south-west of Brussels. The grist is unusual by beer standards, since roughly a third to 40 percent of it is raw, unmalted wheat with pale barley malt making up the rest. The hops are old, often two or three years past harvest, chosen for what they do to spoilage organisms rather than for bitterness or aroma, and some makers run a turbid mash that leaves the wort cloudy with starch and protein the long barrel ageing then has years to work through.

Fermentation happens in wood, largely in barrels that previously held wine, and it runs for one to three years. Young lambic is sold flat and still, while a gueuze is a blend of one, two and three year old lambics bottled so a little remaining sugar carbonates it in the bottle, which is why an aged gueuze arrives with a cork and sediment at the bottom. Fruit goes into a portion of the stock, with whole raspberries making a framboise and cherries making a kriek. Cantillon in Brussels, founded in 1900, is the best-known of the traditional makers and still works the way it started.

The Order in Which Microbes Arrive

A spontaneous fermentation is not one organism doing one job but a sequence in which each stage changes the conditions for the next. The first weeks belong to bacteria that tolerate warm, oxygen-rich wort and to fragile wild yeasts that make very little alcohol. As the liquid acidifies and the alcohol climbs, an ordinary brewer's nightmare becomes a lambic maker's schedule and the more tolerant organisms take over.

Saccharomyces, the yeast behind a normal ale fermentation, does the bulk of the sugar conversion over the first months. Brettanomyces then works slowly for years on the carbohydrates Saccharomyces left behind, and it is the source of the barnyard, leather and dried-hay notes that make people decide for or against the style. Lactic-acid bacteria drop the pH and produce the smooth tartness, Pediococcus pushes the acidity further and adds a butterscotch note that fades with time in bottle, and acetic-acid bacteria will make vinegar if oxygen reaches the beer more than the brewer intended.

Coolships, Barrels and Foeders

The coolship is the piece of equipment people fixate on, and its logic is simple geometry, since a shallow layer of wort gives up heat far faster than a deep one and the wider the exposed surface the more microbes land in it. The practical consequence is that spontaneous fermentation is a cold-weather operation. Lambic brewers run their coolship work through the cooler months, roughly October to May in Belgium, when overnight air temperature falls into the single digits or low teens Celsius, and a warm-climate brewery cannot reproduce that by opening a window in July.

Wood does the rest of the work. Barrels and the large casks called foeders let small amounts of oxygen through, host the microbial communities that give a brewery its house character, and contribute vanillin and tannin of their own. A foeder that is topped up regularly and never fully drained becomes a stable ecosystem, which is why the same brewery's flavour persists across years and across batches that share almost no ingredients.

Wild Ale That Was Never Spontaneous

Most sour beer on a BC shelf is mixed-fermentation rather than spontaneous, and the distinction matters because the flavours are different. A Flanders red or brown ale, the style associated with west Flanders breweries such as Rodenbach and Verhaeghe, is soured by a cultivated blend of Saccharomyces, Brettanomyces and lactic-acid bacteria, aged in large oak casks and blended across vintages. It reads as sour cherry and balsamic rather than as barnyard.

A Berliner Weisse or a gose bought today is usually kettle-soured, which means the brewer sours the wort with a lactic culture before the boil and then pitches ordinary ale yeast. The result is clean, sharp and young, and it will not change in the bottle the way a lambic does. An American farmhouse ale pitched with a commercial mixed culture sits between the two and is often labelled wild ale, which is where a great deal of the confusion on this part of the shelf begins.

What to Look For in the Glass

  • Lactic tartness, which is round and sits across the front of the tongue the way yogurt or a green apple does.
  • Acetic sharpness, which is vinegar-like and prickling, and adds lift in a trace but is a fault rather than a style when it dominates.
  • Brettanomyces character, described as barnyard, leather, saddle soap or dried hay, with riper examples adding pineapple and stone fruit.
  • Wood and slow oxidation, which in an older lambic read as vanilla, toasted coconut and oloroso rather than as fresh oak.
  • Texture, since a well-aged lambic is dry and light-bodied, and a beer that lands sticky usually has been sweetened rather than left to finish.

Wild Ales Made in British Columbia

The province has a small but genuine mixed-fermentation scene. A 2023 feature in The Growler's wild ale feature described Beva Brewing and Blending in North Vancouver building a program around blending barrels with a long-term interest in lambic-style gueuze, and Wild Ambition Brewing in Kelowna fermenting every beer with mixed cultures and filling barrels bought from neighbouring Okanagan wineries. Beva is still pouring on Pemberton Avenue as of September 2026. Île Sauvage in Victoria has built its reputation on sour and wild Belgian-style ales, and Longwood Brewery in Nanaimo appears in BC Ale Trail's coverage of the province's barrel-aged wild ales.

Check before you drive, because a list of this scene is a starting point rather than an itinerary. That same 2023 feature also described House of Funk, a second North Vancouver brewery ageing golden sour stock in large foeders that were topped up with fresh wort, and that brewery closed in September 2025 after a year in which it changed its name trying to stay afloat. Nothing about the beer it made was wrong, and its disappearance is the honest shape of a wild-ale scene in British Columbia: the brewing is real and the businesses behind it are fragile.

What those programs share is a cultivated mixed culture and time in wood rather than reliance on whatever happens to be in the air, which is the realistic route for a brewery that cannot inherit a century of house microflora. A bottle from any of them will tell you something about how the style behaves at a Canadian altitude, in a Canadian climate, out of Canadian oak alternatives, and that is a more useful education than the imported comparison alone.

Buying, Storing and Pouring

Look for a bottling or release date rather than hoping, because a gueuze is sold ready to drink and gains little from another year in a fridge, while the fruit in a framboise softens noticeably after a long warm summer. Keep bottles cool and dark, store them on their side if the closure is a cork, and pour steadily, stopping before the last of the sediment comes out unless you enjoy the thicker, yeastier finish it adds, which is a matter of taste rather than correctness.

Serve it warmer than lager. A lambic at fridge temperature shows almost nothing, and ten to twelve degrees Celsius is where the acidity stops feeling like a shock and the oak and fruit appear. A stemmed glass with some width at the bowl is worth using for the aroma, and the carbonation on a bottle-conditioned gueuze is soft enough that you can pour it without chasing a head.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a wild ale and a sour beer?

Sour describes an acidity the drinker detects, and wild usually means the beer went through a fermentation involving organisms beyond a standard ale yeast, most often Brettanomyces. A kettle-soured gose is sour without being wild, and a dry, low-acidity Brett farmhouse ale can be wild without being very sour, so the two words are answering different questions.

Is spontaneous fermentation the same as leaving beer out to spoil?

It is not, and the difference is control. A lambic maker boils the wort, chooses the season and the vessel, manages the barrels, tops them up, tastes as the beer ages and blends at the end. What the brewer does not choose is which organisms arrive, and that is precisely why the finished beer carries a building and a valley in a way a pitched culture cannot copy.

Can I make a wild ale at home without a coolship?

Yes, and that is the sensible route, because commercial mixed cultures containing Saccharomyces, Brettanomyces and lactic-acid bacteria are sold for exactly this purpose. A homebrewer should expect a long turnaround, a dedicated set of plastic buckets and carboys that never touch another beer, and the loss of any realistic hope of brewing a clean, hop-aromatic pale ale on that equipment afterwards, because Brettanomyces is very difficult to remove from scratched plastic.

Do wild ales contain gluten or animal products?

A lambic is brewed from barley malt and wheat, both of which contain gluten, so it is not suitable for a reader with coeliac disease. Whether any beer is vegan depends on the fining agents and the brewery's process rather than on the style, and a spontaneously fermented beer is no more likely to avoid animal-derived processing aids than an ordinary lager.

Where to Start If You Have Never Had One

Buy a gueuze from a traditional Brussels-area maker and a young unblended lambic, bring both to around eleven degrees Celsius, and pour them within twenty minutes of each other. The lambic will taste flat, sharply acidic and unfamiliar, and the gueuze will taste like the same beer with carbonation, blending and time applied to it. That comparison tells you more about spontaneous fermentation in one evening than any amount of reading, and it settles quickly whether you want to work your way through a shelf of them.

Saturday, April 1, 2023

Guide To Sour Beers: From Lambics To Goses

Sour beer is beer that a brewer made acidic on purpose, and that tartness comes from bacteria and wild yeast rather than from hops or from fruit syrup added afterwards. The organisms doing the work are Lactobacillus and Pediococcus, which produce lactic acid, along with Acetobacter, which produces acetic acid, and Brettanomyces, a wild yeast that dries a beer out and adds the barnyard note people call funk. If you are reading this because you want a gluten-free beer, though, start with the uncomfortable part: the classic sours are built on barley malt with a large share of wheat, so a sour is one of the least suitable styles to reach for.

Five small stemless glasses on a wooden flight board, holding amber, pink, cloudy gold, dark brown and pale yellow beer, on a bar top against a blurred dark background

What Makes A Beer Taste Sour

Ordinary beer ferments with Saccharomyces, the brewer's yeast, which turns wort sugar into alcohol and leaves almost no acidity behind. Saccharomyces is the standard yeast rather than a wild one, so it belongs on the other side of the fence from Brettanomyces in any list of souring organisms. Lactobacillus is the same genus behind yoghurt and sauerkraut, and it excretes lactic acid, which lands as a clean, sharp tartness across the front of the tongue. Pediococcus works the same chemical job more slowly and can leave a soft, rounded edge that fades with age. Brettanomyces then eats the dextrins that brewer's yeast abandons, which pushes a beer drier and adds tropical fruit and leather characters, and Acetobacter contributes volatile acidity, which is vinegar, and which in a well-made Flanders red only lifts the dark fruit.

Acidity alone does not determine how sour a beer seems, because a thin, dry, heavily carbonated glass reads as far more tart than a heavier one at the same pH. That is why a 3 percent Berliner Weisse can knock you sideways while a barrel-aged beer at 7 percent tastes mellow, and why the alcohol number on a tap list tells you less about sourness than the body and the carbonation do.

Lambic and Gueuze From the Senne Valley

Lambic comes from a small zone to the south and west of Brussels, including the Senne valley and the Pajottenland, and it is the beer made by letting hot wort cool in a wide, shallow open vessel called a coolship so that airborne microbes settle into it. The grist is part malted barley and part wheat, commonly a third of the grain or thereabouts, and the hops are deliberately old, because a lambic brewer wants their preservative value rather than any bitterness or aroma. Fermentation then runs for months, sometimes years, in oak, with different organisms taking their turn as the sugars run down. The background on the style is summarized at sour beer overview.

Gueuze is a blend of young lambic, which still has fermentable sugar, with older lambic that has lost its sweetness, bottled so the young beer's sugar carbonates the mixture. The result is dry, sparkling, lemon-skinned and bracing. Fruit lambics are made by macerating real fruit on the base beer, kriek with sour cherries and framboise with raspberries, and the traditional versions are bone dry, while many widely exported fruit lambics lean on added syrup. If you want the dry kind, look for a producer that says the fruit went into the barrel rather than into the finished beer, because the labels are usually candid about it.

Belgium's other sour tradition is red and brown ale from Flanders, where the beer is aged in large oak vats called foeders and the acidity comes from a mixed culture working slowly over a year or two, with blending of young and old beer to reach the target taste. Rodenbach and Verhaeghe are the names most associated with it, and the style tastes of dark fruit and balsamic sharpness rather than of lemon.

Berliner Weisse, Gose and Kettle Souring

Berliner Weisse is a low-gravity, high-carbonation wheat beer from Berlin, traditionally poured into a tall glass with a shot of syrup alongside, red for raspberry and green for woodruff. It is light, lemony and the easiest entry point for someone who insists they do not like sour beer, which is also how it became the template for a lot of what gets poured in summer.

Gose is usually traced to the German towns of Goslar and Leipzig, and it pairs lactic tartness with coriander and a deliberate pinch of salt, again with a large share of wheat in the grist. The word ends in an e, so gose and goes are not the same thing, and a menu that misspells the style is usually a menu that nobody has read back.

Kettle souring is the method behind most of what a BC taproom lists as a sour. The brewer inoculates unboiled wort with Lactobacillus, lets the pH drop overnight, then boils, which kills the bacteria and freezes the acidity at that point, after which ordinary brewer's yeast makes the alcohol. The process is fast and repeatable and gives a brewery a clean, single-note tartness without the risk of keeping souring organisms loose in the building. What it does not give you is the layered acidity, dryness and complexity of a barrel beer, which is why a kettle-soured Berliner Weisse is an approximation of the original rather than the same product.

Are Sour Beers Gluten-Free

No, and this is the point where most general advice about sour beer goes wrong. Barley and wheat are the two grains a person with coeliac disease has to avoid, and they are the two grains a lambic, a gueuze, a gose, a Berliner Weisse and a kettle-soured fruit ale are made from. Souring changes the acidity of the beer, not the proteins in it, and the lactic and acetic bacteria involved do not break gluten down to anything a coeliac reader could treat as safe. A beer only qualifies as gluten-free when it was brewed from the start on non-gluten grain such as sorghum, millet, buckwheat, rice or corn, which makes it a specialized product rather than a version of the styles above.

The other wording to recognize is gluten-reduced, which describes a beer brewed from barley or wheat and then treated with an enzyme intended to break the protein into fragments. Canadian labelling treats the two claims differently, since a gluten-free claim cannot be made for food containing gluten protein from wheat, barley, rye, oats or triticale, and Celiac Canada advises people living with coeliac disease to avoid gluten-removed or gluten-reduced beer and to choose naturally gluten-free drinks instead. That leaves wine, cider, straight spirits and dedicated gluten-free beer, and it is worth noting that cider and spirits are gluten-free because they are not grain-based at all, which is a different situation from any beer, however it was soured. If you have coeliac disease and a taproom lists a sorghum-based sour, ask how it was made and whether the brewery runs it on shared equipment before you trust the glass.

Serving Sours So They Show Well

Serve the light lactic beers well chilled, around 4 to 6 degrees Celsius, since warmth flattens the acidity that makes them refreshing, and move up to somewhere near 8 degrees for gueuze, Flanders red and barrel-aged examples, where too much chill buries the aroma. A wine glass beats a pint glass for anything you want to smell, and a flute holds the carbonation in a gueuze better than a wide mouth does. Because bottle-conditioned lambic and gueuze carry sediment, pour steadily and leave the last inch in the bottle if you want a clear glass, or swirl it in if you want a thicker one and a bit of yeast bitterness.

Storage follows the same divide as the brewing, because fruit sours and kettle-soured beers are made to be drunk young, within a few months, and the fruit character and the carbonation both fade. A dry gueuze or a Flanders red kept cool and dark can improve for years, which is the only real aging advice worth following in this style family.

Food Pairings Worth Trying

Sourness is acidity, and acidity is what a cook reaches for to cut richness, so the useful pairing rule is to ask whether a squeeze of lemon would improve the dish. Fried fish, mussels, goat cheese, rich pâté and rillettes all work, and the tartness refreshes your palate between bites of something fatty. Spicy food is a good match for a fruity, moderately sour beer because the acidity cools the chill, while a sweet fruit lambic wants dessert or nothing at all. A salty gose is worth trying with oysters, and gueuze with a sharp cheese is one of the cheapest good dinners available in this province.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to brew a sour beer?

A kettle sour can reach a tap in a couple of weeks, since the acidification happens in the kettle ahead of the yeast and the fermentation itself is ordinary. A barrel beer is a different proposition, because lambic spends a year or more in oak before a blender even considers it, gueuze is bottled and conditioned for a further year, and Flanders red is aged in large vats for one to two years before blending.

Are sour beers lower in alcohol than other beers?

Not as a rule, which is one of the commonest things people get wrong about them. Berliner Weisse and some lambics genuinely sit low, around 3 to 5 percent, while kettle-soured fruit ales and barrel-aged sours can reach 8 to 11 percent. The dryness and the carbonation in a well-made sour mask alcohol, so a barrel fruit beer at 9 percent can feel lighter than a 5 percent lager.

What is the difference between a sour beer and a wild ale?

The difference is what you are tasting. A wild ale means a beer fermented with organisms beyond standard brewer's yeast, usually Brettanomyces, and it can be dry, funky and only faintly acidic, while a sour is defined by the acidity itself. Old lambic sits in both camps at once, which is why the two terms get used interchangeably on tap lists and why a beer labelled wild can taste nothing like the sour you were expecting.

Can I find a gluten-free sour beer?

You can find beer brewed on sorghum or other gluten-free grain, and a handful of makers acidify those bases, but it is a niche product and you should read the label for the grain bill rather than trusting the word sour. If what you want is tartness without grain, dry cider and wine get you closer than any barley beer, and a coeliac reader should confirm the specifics with the producer rather than assuming a style is safe.

Buy Two Bottles And Learn The Style In One Night

The fastest way to understand sour beer is to open a sweet fruit lambic and a dry gueuze at the same time, since the distance between them is the distance between sugar and acidity rather than a difference of style. Decide which side of that line you like, and the rest of the shelf becomes readable: kettle sours and Berliner Weisse if you want brightness and low alcohol, barrel-aged gueuze and Flanders red if you want something dry, complex and savory.

Tuesday, March 21, 2023

How Sour Ales Are Made: The Two Routes to a Sour Beer

A sour ale is made by letting acid-producing microbes into the beer rather than keeping them out, and there are two ways a brewer does it. In the first, the wort is soured in the kettle before any alcohol exists, then boiled and fermented normally, which gives a bright, one-note tartness in a couple of weeks. In the second, the beer is put into wood and left to a mixed culture of yeast and bacteria for a year or more, which gives something drier and stranger. The gap between those two routes explains almost everything about why a lemon-fresh sour in a can and an aged lambic both sit under the heading of sour ale and taste like different beverages.

Two glasses on a copper-rimmed tray seen from above, one holding a hazy pink-orange beer with a thin pale head and the other a clear golden beer, with half an orange on the tray, flat-leaf green herbs spread around the glasses and part of an amber bottle at the left edge

Sourness Is an Acid Rather Than a Flavouring

Three kinds of organism do the work. Lactobacillus and Pediococcus are bacteria that produce lactic acid as they feed, the same acid that appears in yoghurt and sauerkraut, and it lands on the tongue as a clean sharpness at the front of the mouth. Acetobacter is a bacterium that turns alcohol into acetic acid, which is vinegar, and it needs oxygen to do it, which is why a barrel beer can slide from pleasantly tart to pickle liquor if the headspace in the wood is left unmanaged. Brettanomyces is a yeast rather than a bacterium, and it contributes comparatively little acid; what it brings is dryness, a faint note of leather or barnyard, and the ability to ferment the longer sugar chains that ordinary brewer's yeast leaves behind.

The measurable result is acidity. A normal pale ale sits at roughly 4.0 to 4.5 on the pH scale, while a sour beer usually lands between 3.0 and 3.8, and how tart either one tastes also depends on residual sugar, body and carbonation, so two beers with the same pH can differ a good deal in the glass.

Kettle Souring, the Fast Route

Kettle souring, also called pre-souring, separates the acid from the alcohol. The brewer makes wort, chills it to the range Lactobacillus likes rather than the range brewer's yeast likes, doses it with a culture, and holds it warm for a few days with the vessel blanketed in carbon dioxide to keep oxygen out. When the acidity is where the brewer wants it, the wort goes back on the fire, and that boil both stops the souring at a chosen point and sterilizes the liquid. Only then does the yeast go in.

  1. Mash and boil the wort as usual, then cool it to roughly 35 to 45 C instead of to normal fermentation temperature.
  2. Pitch a lactobacillus culture, or sour the wort the older way by stirring in crushed malt, which carries the bacteria on its husk.
  3. Blanket the vessel with carbon dioxide and hold it warm for one to three days, tasting as it goes until the tartness is right.
  4. Bring the wort back to a boil, which halts the acidification and kills the bacteria, then add the hop charge and chill it.
  5. Ferment with the ale yeast the style calls for, and package it knowing that nothing live from the souring step survives in the can.

The advantages are control and speed, since the brewer can stop the acidity at a chosen point instead of waiting to see what the barrel does, and a kettle sour can be on shelf within a month. The cost is depth, because lactic acid on its own is a single line rather than a chord. Hops also get in the way of the souring step, since the iso-alpha acids that make beer bitter suppress lactic bacteria, which is why a kettle sour is often brewed with barely any bittering charge and hopped afterwards instead.

The Slow Route of Air, Wood and Time

Spontaneous fermentation is the older method and the one that still defines the classic sour beers of Belgium. Cooled wort is run into a coolship, a shallow open vessel with a wide surface, and left overnight with the roof vents open so that whatever is living in the air of the valley settles into it. Lambic, made in the Senne valley south-west of Brussels, is the surviving example, and the fermentation that follows is not one event but a succession, with different organisms taking over as the acidity rises and the alcohol appears. The beer is then racked into old oak barrels, where it sits for one, two or three years, and the blender's job is to marry young beer for fizz and sugar with old beer for acid and complexity. Still lambic blended and bottle-conditioned becomes gueuze, and fruit added to a barrel becomes kriek with cherries or framboise with raspberries.

Flanders red and brown ale reach the same destination by a slightly different road. The wort is inoculated rather than left to the air, and the beer ages in large oak vats where a mixed culture of yeast, Lactobacillus, Pediococcus and Acetobacter works slowly enough that the brewery is blending one and two year old beer for the next release. The result is rounder and more wine-like than a kettle sour, with an acidity that has an edge of vinegar in it rather than being all lactic.

Which Style Comes From Which Route

StyleHow it gets souredWhat to expect in the glass
Berliner WeisseLactobacillus, now usually in the kettleVery pale, low in alcohol, sharp and clean, often served with syrup
GoseLactobacillus with salt and corianderSoft and lemony with a savoury edge, nearly always kettle soured today
Lambic and gueuzeAirborne microbes in a coolship, then barrel ageingDry, complex, barnyard and citrus, blended by age
Flanders red aleMixed culture in large oak vatsTart and vinous, sweet against sour, blended young and old
American wild aleWhatever the brewer pitches, often a blendNo rules, Brett-led, dry, frequently finished with fruit
Sour IPAKettle soured, then hopped hardCitrus and pineapple sitting over a bright acidity

Why the Two Routes Taste Nothing Alike

A kettle sour is lactic acid plus whatever hops and yeast you chose, and nothing else, because the souring step is finished before fermentation begins. A barrel sour is the product of years of overlapping activity in which the same organisms strip out nearly all of the residual sugar, pull tannin and a little oxygen through the wood, and leave Brettanomyces faintly working in the bottle. That is why the barrel beer tastes dry and layered while the kettle beer tastes fruity and forward, and it is the reason a drinker who likes one should not be pushed toward the other without a warning.

What Goes Wrong

The organisms that make a sour beer are the same ones that ruin an ordinary one, which is why breweries running both keep the equipment separate and never share a hose. The common failures are instructive. Pediococcus working in an open vessel throws a large amount of diacetyl, the slippery buttery compound that a clean lager brewer would treat as a fault. Oxygen reaching a barrel with Acetobacter in it produces vinegar rather than beer. A kettle left too long at too cool a temperature can throw a flat, yoghurt character instead of a clean tartness. And a fruit addition that goes into a bottle with live culture still in it will ferment further, which is how a bottle becomes a grenade and a brewery learns to put the fruit in a barrel instead.

Serving and Food

Serve these beers cooler than a stout but not at lager temperature, somewhere in the 7 to 10 C range, in a stemmed tulip or a flute rather than a pint glass, since the aroma of a sour ale is mostly fruit and hay and a wide glass throws it away. Gueuze and lambic need a steady pour that leaves the sediment in the bottle unless you want it, and a Flanders red poured at the warmer end of that range will show more of its sweetness. Food follows the acidity, since what a sour beer does to a rich dish is what a squeeze of lemon does: mussels, fried fish, goat cheese, roast chicken with pan juices, and anything fatty all get cut by it, while the fruit-forward kettle sours go with dessert rather than dinner.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are sour ales healthy?

No, and the claim that they are a source of probiotics does not survive the process that makes them. In a kettle-soured beer the bacteria are boiled to death before fermentation even starts, so there is nothing live left in the can, and in a barrel-aged beer the alcohol is the larger fact about what the drink does to you whatever is floating in it. The acidity is also the reason some people find these beers uncomfortable to drink on an empty stomach, so the honest summary is that a sour ale is a beer, and it should be chosen because it tastes good.

Are sour ales gluten free?

Almost none of them are. Lambic is brewed with a large proportion of wheat alongside barley, Berliner Weisse and gose are wheat beers, and Flanders red is barley, so all four carry gluten through fermentation. A beer treated with an enzyme to break gluten down is a different product making a different claim, and it is not something a coeliac reader should treat as safe on the strength of a style name.

How long does it take to make a sour ale?

Between three weeks and three years, depending on the route. A kettle sour spends one to three days souring, a week fermenting and a short conditioning period, which is why a brewery can put a fruit sour on shelf in the same season it was dreamed up. A lambic is a year old before anyone tastes it and a gueuze is usually a blend of one, two and three year old beer, so the brewery that sells it has to have decided what it wanted three years earlier.

Is a fruited sour the same thing as a lambic?

That equation has mostly broken down in favour of the word fruit. Fruit lambic is a real and specific thing, made by adding whole cherries or raspberries to a barrel of lambic so that the sugars in the fruit feed whatever is still working in the wood, and the fruit is gone within a year leaving acid, colour and flavour behind. Most of what a Canadian shelf calls a fruit sour is a kettle-soured base beer with fruit purée added after fermentation, which is a faster and cleaner way to get a mango or passionfruit beer that happens to be tart.

Can a homebrewer make a sour beer?

Kettle souring is the practical route, since it uses a purchased lactobacillus culture, a pot and a thermometer, and it ends with a boil that puts the souring under your control. A mixed culture in a plastic bucket is the version to avoid, because the bacteria that carry through a home brewery's equipment will follow it into every clean batch you brew afterwards, and a homebrewer who has not separated the two sets of gear has usually created an infection rather than a program.

Start on the Kettle Side of the Style

If you want to understand how a sour beer gets its acid, brew the fast one first and drink the slow one while you wait. A kettle-soured gose is a weekend of work and will teach you more about where your own taste for tartness stops than any number of bottles bought blind, and the barrel beer you drink in the meantime will show you what the extra two years of organisms and oak are actually buying. That comparison, rather than any single style, is the thing worth knowing about sour ales, because most disappointment in this corner of the shelf comes from somebody expecting one route and being handed the other.