Showing posts with label italian grape ale. Show all posts
Showing posts with label italian grape ale. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 9, 2023

Italian Grape Ale: What Happens When a Brewer Adds Must

An Italian grape ale is a beer whose wort has had grape must or whole grapes added to it, which puts it in an awkward spot between two traditions: it is brewed from malted barley the way any ale is, and it ferments partly on the sugars a winemaker would use. The style has its own experimental category in the BJCP guidelines, number X3, and it was pioneered in the mid-2000s by breweries including Montegioco and Barley, both of them working in regions with a long wine tradition and both of them able to buy local fruit by the pallet rather than by the crate.

A stemmed tulip glass of clear golden beer with a finger of white foam and rising bubbles, standing on a wooden board among bunches of pale green grapes and a vine leaf, with a sunlit hillside behind

Where the Style Came From

The idea is not new in the abstract, because farmhouse brewers across Europe have historically thrown whatever fermentable fruit was to hand into the kettle. What happened in Italy in the mid-2000s was a revival rather than an invention: a small group of brewers, most visibly Montegioco in the Piedmontese Langhe and Barley in Lombardy, began treating local grape varieties as a serious brewing ingredient instead of a novelty, and the results were good enough that the style eventually earned a line in the style guidelines.

The timing mattered as much as the technique. Italian craft brewing in that period was largely run by people who had come out of homebrewing and were curious about yeast, and the surrounding wine culture handed them an ingredient that an American or Belgian brewer could not source in the same way. An Italian grape ale is, in that sense, a very local product that happens to have a style name attached to it.

What Separates an IGA From Its Neighbours

What you are drinkingWhere the fermentable sugar comes fromWhat that means in the glass
Italian grape aleMalted barley plus grape must or whole grapesBeer structure and yeast character, with varietal grape aroma and a dry body
Grape wineGrape must onlyNo malt, no hops, nothing grain-derived underneath the fruit
Fruit beerMalted barley plus fruit other than grapesThe fruit is a flavouring added to a finished beer rather than a partner in the ferment
Field or wild aleMalted barley, sometimes with wheat or speltSourness and complexity come from wild yeast and bacteria rather than from grape
Flavoured malt beverageA grain base plus flavourings and usually sugar added afterwardsSweetness and aroma are built in rather than fermented out

The line that matters most when you are buying is the one between an IGA and a fruit beer. In the grape ale definition the fruit is a brewing ingredient, present during fermentation, and nothing else is added for flavour. Once a brewery is sweetening a finished beer with grape juice or seasoning it with anything beyond malt, hops, yeast and grapes, it has become a different product, and the label will usually say so in the ingredients list.

What the Grapes Actually Do

Grape sugar is almost entirely glucose and fructose, and yeast eats those far more completely than the sugars it is handed by malt, so the first effect of adding grapes is a thinner, drier beer at a higher alcohol level. That is why so many examples finish light and prickly rather than malty, and why a brewer who wants real body has to build it into the grain bill with wheat or oats, or simply ferment less.

The second effect is aroma. White varieties bring apple, pear, citrus peel and floral notes, while red varieties bring berry and cherry, and if the juice is allowed to sit on the skins you also get colour and tannin. That tannin is one of the style's tells, because a drying, grippy finish is unusual in beer and people almost always describe it as winy.

The third effect is what can keep happening after you take the bottle home. Many of these beers are bottle-conditioned, and leftover grape sugars can restart fermentation if a brewer has been careless with the bottling rate, so a wine-like sediment or an over-carbonated gusher is a genuine possibility with the style. Keep bottles cool and upright, open them over a glass rather than at your mouth, and expect a little deposit at the bottom of older ones.

The Yeast Question

IGAs split into two camps on fermentation, and the split is the single most useful thing to understand before you spend money on one. Some brewers use a clean ale strain, occasionally a wine yeast, to stay out of the grapes' way, and the result reads like a dry sparkling white wine with malt behind it. Others work in the Italian farmhouse tradition of mixed fermentation, where wild yeast and lactic bacteria do as much work as the fruit, and the result is sour, barnyardy and considerably less welcoming on the first sip.

Neither approach is the correct one, which is exactly why the style is hard to shop for. A bottle carrying the words Italian Grape Ale could be a bright, lemony aperitivo or a bone-dry sour with a horse-blanket edge, and the only reliable clue on the label is whether the brewer mentions wild yeast, spontaneous fermentation or barrel ageing.

Producers Worth Knowing, and Two Names That Do Not Belong

LoverBeer, in Bra in Piedmont, is the producer most associated with the style, and the brewery's reputation rests on ales made with must from local Barbera vines, which is the whole idea in a single bottle. Birrificio del Ducato in Emilia-Romagna belongs in the same conversation, but the beer of theirs that is an Italian grape ale is Settembre, made with organic Malvasia. Ca' del Brado has real examples of the style in U Baccabianca and U Baccarossa.

Two names that turn up in older grape-ale lists do not belong there. New Morning is del Ducato's botanical saison and contains no grapes at all, and Bradamante from Ca' del Brado is a Flemish red-style ale matured for more than a year in oak tonneaux rather than a beer built on grape must. If a guide you are reading still cites either as an example of the style, treat the rest of that guide with suspicion, because those two errors travel together.

Serving It and Eating With It

Use a stemmed glass with some room in the bowl, a tulip or a white wine glass rather than a pint glass, because the grape aromatics are the point of the exercise and they vanish in a wide, cold vessel. Serve the pale, dry, sparkling examples well chilled, the way you would an aperitivo, and pour the darker, stronger, wild-fermented ones a little warmer so the aroma has a chance to open as the glass sits.

Food is where the style earns its keep. Dryness and tannin cut through fat the way a red wine would, so salumi, aged cheeses, roasted vegetables and herb-roasted chicken all work, and the sparkling white examples are good with fried appetizers and fresh goat cheese. The pairing to avoid is anything sweet, because a dry grape ale turned against a dessert tastes flat and slightly metallic.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Italian grape ale gluten-free or safe for someone with coeliac disease?

No, it is not, because an Italian grape ale is brewed from malted barley and adding grapes does nothing to the gluten proteins that come from the grain. A coeliac reader should treat the style exactly as they would any other barley beer, which means avoiding it. Two related distinctions are worth carrying with you: a beer labelled gluten-reduced was brewed from gluten-containing grain and then treated with an enzyme to break the protein down, which is not the same claim as gluten-free and is not something to rely on if you have coeliac disease, and a product that genuinely avoids gluten will say so and is usually built from sorghum, millet, rice or buckwheat rather than barley or wheat.

Are Italian grape ales suitable for a vegan diet?

You cannot tell from the style, because suitability depends on what the brewer used to clarify the beer rather than on the ingredients in the recipe. Fining agents such as isinglass, gelatin and egg white are animal products, and makers working alongside a winemaking tradition use them as readily as anyone, while plenty of grape ales are left unfined and cloudy. An unfiltered or bottle-conditioned beer is more likely to be free of animal finings, but likelihood is not a guarantee, so ask the brewery or read the ingredient statement if this matters to you.

How strong is an Italian grape ale?

There is no fixed strength, and that is a feature of the style rather than a gap in the guidelines. Grape sugar pushes alcohol up and body down at the same time, so you will find examples that drink like a light aperitivo and others at wine strength or beyond it. Expect the alcohol to be less obvious than it is in a malt beer of the same size, since there is very little residual sweetness left to hide it, and pour a small glass the first time you open one.

Can I keep a bottle for a year or two?

The wild-fermented, bottle-conditioned and higher-alcohol examples can improve over a year or two, and the funk softens while the fruit deepens, so it is worth buying a spare bottle of anything in that camp. Pale, clean-fermented, lightly hopped examples are made to be drunk young and time only removes aroma from them. Store whatever you have somewhere cool, dark and steady, on its side if the bottle is closed with natural cork and upright if it wears a crown cap.

What is the real difference between an IGA and a glass of wine?

A grape ale has a grain bill, which means malted barley and usually some wheat as well, and it is mashed, boiled and hopped. Wine has none of that. On the palate the difference shows up as a bready or biscuit malt layer and a faint bitter edge underneath the fruit, so the grape sits on top of a beer rather than being the whole structure.

Where to Start

Buy the least intimidating bottle you can find in the style, a pale, sparkling, clean-fermented one, and drink it well chilled before dinner rather than with it. That will tell you quickly whether you like malt with grape in it at all. If you do, move on to a red-grape example with some tannin, and leave the wild-fermented bottles until last, because meeting the barnyard end of the style first is what puts most people off it permanently.