Showing posts with label dessert. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dessert. Show all posts

Friday, September 25, 2026

Beer And Ice Cream: The Coldest Pairing Experiment You Will Actually Notice

Ice cream is the one dessert where temperature is not a detail on the side of the plate, it is half of the dish. The dessert arrives frozen enough to blunt your tongue, and the beer arrives a few degrees above freezing, so the two halves of the pairing are working at completely different temperatures and changing in opposite directions while you eat. Get it right and a dry, bitter, lively beer looks like a genuinely surprising match for a sweet, fatty scoop. Get the temperature wrong and the whole thing collapses into something cloying, not because the beer was wrong but because you served it too warm, too late, or in too large a pour to survive the dessert.

A tall glass of pale golden beer with a white head on a wet wooden table, pale barley grains scattered around its base, an open gravel road and conifers behind

The general question of how sweet a beer has to be to stand up to a dessert is covered elsewhere on the site, including the style-by-style pairing guide, and it does not change when the dessert is frozen. What changes is everything about temperature, and that is what this page is about, because with ice cream the temperature advice inverts the advice you would give for a cake. The frozen dessert tastes less sweet than it measures, and the beer tastes more muted than it would on its own, and if you plan the pairing the way you would plan a cake pairing you will overcorrect on both sides at once.

Cold Makes The Dessert Taste Less Sweet

Temperature moves perceived sweetness and perceived aroma, and it moves them in opposite directions depending on which side of the pairing you are looking at. Cold suppresses sweetness, which is why the same ice cream base that tastes cloying when it melts on the counter tastes clean and balanced when it is frozen. A frozen dessert therefore presents your beer with a lower effective sugar load than the recipe suggests, which means a beer that is only moderately dry can stand up to it, where the identical beer would go thin and sharp beside the same dessert served at room temperature. This is the inversion, and it is the reason the pairing feels easier to get right than dessert pairing usually is, provided you resist the urge to reach for something very sweet to match the name ice cream.

The other half of the inversion is on the beer side. Cold also dulls a beer's aroma, especially the volatile top notes that come from hops and roast, so a very hoppy or very roasty beer served ice cold reads as flatter and less characterful than it does at cellar temperature, and you will not get the version of it you were hoping for. If the beer is doing aromatic work in the pairing, serve it a little warmer than you normally would, not colder, and accept that it will warm quickly while you eat.

The Clock Is Part Of The Pairing

Melt is what makes this different from every other dessert pairing, because the pairing is on a timer. Ice cream goes from frozen to soft to liquid within a few minutes at room temperature, and every stage changes the fat and the sugar differently. Frozen, the fat is locked in and the sugar is suppressed, so the beer has a dry finish to work against. Soft, the fat and sugar come loose together and the bite turns rich, so the same beer now has to hold against fat. Fully melted, you are drinking a sweet cream sauce, and you are back to a dessert problem that cold was helping you with. If you want to taste the pairing the way it is meant to work, the first two or three bites are the ones that count, and everything after that is a different experiment.

The beer warms faster than the dessert cools, and that asymmetry is the practical trap. A pint glass of beer on a table in a warm room climbs noticeably within a few minutes, and as it climbs it gets sweeter, softer and more alcoholic-tasting, so the beer you are matching against a frozen scoop at the first bite is not the beer you are holding by the third. Pour a smaller amount than usual, put the glass on a cold plate or a folded cold cloth if you have one, and take the dessert in small bites while the beer is still cold, because the pairing is at its widest exactly once and you only get to be there for it briefly.

Why The Second Bite Tastes Less Than The First

This is the part that makes people decide beer and ice cream does not work, and it is a palate effect rather than a flavour problem. Cold and fat are both dulling, and the dessert supplies both at once, so by the second and third bite your tongue is carrying a coating of dairy and a lowered sensitivity, and everything in the glass reads softer and less contrasted than it did a minute ago. The beer appears to fade or get thin, and people conclude the pairing failed. It has not; your palate has been altered by the dish. The fix is to take the dessert in fewer, smaller bites, let the beer be the first thing back in your mouth after each one, and keep something sharp and dry in the glass so there is still something to notice once the dullness sets in.

This is also why the pairing is much more reliable with a single well-chosen scoop than with a sampler of four. Each additional flavour resets the palate in a different direction, and the beer that worked against the first one will be judged against the third before you finish the second, so a tasting flight of ice cream is really a test of your ability to reset between bites rather than a test of the beer. Pick one flavour, work out what it is doing, and change the beer deliberately, not the dessert.

What To Pour And When

The situationWhat to reach forHow to serve it
Vanilla ice cream, plain and unsweetened-looking, with a dry bitter beerA clean, lively lager, pilsner, or a pale ale with real bitterness, since the fat is the whole problem and carbonation is built for fatA smaller pour than usual, in whatever keeps it coldest, and eaten with the dessert while the ice cream is still hard
A dark roast or chocolate forward ice creamA beer with roast and cocoa of its own, so the two halves are in the same family rather than fightingSlightly warmer than you would serve it alone, since a very cold beer hides exactly the roast notes you are pairing
A fruit sorbet or a sharp, very acidic frozen dessertA dry, sour, or kettle-soured beer, since the plate is acidic and the beer wants to meet it rather than be sweetened against itServe both cold, and go for a near tie in acidity rather than a sweet beer with nothing to trade
A caramel, fudge, or salted caramel ice creamA beer with genuine residual malt sweetness but still enough carbonation to keep the fat movingSmall pour, and let the sweetness sit on the plate rather than trying to match it mouthful for mouthful
A dessert with a lot of alcohol-flavoured or boozy characterKeep the beer simple and dry, because doubling up on alcohol leaves you with heat rather than balancePour small and drink the dessert first, so the beer is the cleaner-tasting thing at the end of the bite

Frequently Asked Questions

Does a stout really go with vanilla ice cream, or is that just a party trick?

It works, and the reason is that a stout already contains the two things a scoop of vanilla is made of. Roast and cocoa notes are the same family as the browned sugar in vanilla, and the fat in the cream gives the beer's bitterness and roast something to soften. What makes it fail is temperature and portion rather than the combination itself, since a very cold stout served in a large glass reads as thin and cold against a cold scoop and neither is doing anything for the other. Serve it a little warmer than usual, pour small, and the first two bites will tell you whether you like the idea.

Should the beer be colder than normal for this pairing?

Usually yes, but with one exception that catches people out. Cold keeps a beer crisp and lively against a fatty scoop, and it is what stops the pairing turning heavy, so keep the beer cold when the dessert is doing the aromatic work. If the beer's contribution is hop aroma or roast, though, cold suppresses that aroma, and in that case serve it a few degrees warmer than you would on its own so you can actually taste what you are pairing. In either case, keep the pour small, because a large pour will warm past the useful temperature before you finish the dessert.

Is there a beer and ice cream combination that never works?

The ones that fail are the beers with nothing to trade, which means a very light, very dry, very neutral lager beside a heavy, intensely sweet frozen dessert. There is no fat for the carbonation to cut, no bitterness to balance the sugar, no roast or malt to share, and no residual sweetness to offset it, so all that is left is a thin drink against a rich one and the pairing reads as two separate things rather than one. Add any one of carbonation, bitterness, acidity, roast, or residual sugar and you have something to work with, which is a more useful rule than any list of styles.

The First Two Bites Are The Whole Experiment

Treat ice cream as a short window rather than a course. Take one scoop, not four, pour something dry and bitter and smaller than usual, and eat the first two bites before anything else happens, because those are the bites where the dessert is still cold enough to be suppressed and your palate has not yet been dulled by the fat. If those two bites work, you have your pairing and the rest of the bowl is just dessert. If they do not, the fix is nearly always a different beer rather than a different scoop, since a beer with carbonation, bitterness, roast, or a little malt sweetness in it can handle most frozen desserts, and a neutral one cannot handle any of them.

Beer And The Donut: An Odd Marriage Explained Through Sugar And Fat

A glazed ring donut is not a neutral sweet, and treating it like one is why so many people think beer and doughnuts is a stunt. A donut is two different obstacles in one bite, because the dough is fried, which leaves fat in the crumb, and then it is glazed or rolled in sugar, which leaves a dry sweetness on top. Beer handles the first obstacle well and the second one badly, and the reason it can look like it is doing well on a donut is that the fat is loud enough to hide the fact that the sugar side is losing. This page is about the fat chemistry, since the residual-sugar arithmetic for a sweet course is set out at length in our coverage of pairing beer with dessert.

A tall glass of pale golden beer with a white head on a dark slate slab beside fresh green hop cones, a narrow suspension footbridge in tall forest behind

The other thing worth saying up front is that this is a pairing with a narrow, specific sweet, not with desserts in general. A cheesecake, a panna cotta and a sorbet are three different problems, and the general case of matching a beer to a sweet course is already covered by the site's dessert and style-by-style guides. A donut is interesting precisely because it is fried, because that single fact changes the order in which fat and sugar reach your tongue, and therefore which of the two the beer actually has to beat.

A Donut Puts Fat First And Sugar Second

The order matters because carbonation and bitterness work on fat and make sugar worse, while residual sugar in the beer is the only thing that can offset it. On a cheesecake the fat is suspended in a cold emulsion and arrives mixed with cream, so it coats slowly and the sugar arrives alongside it. In a fried doughnut the oil is already inside the crumb, so the fat reaches the tongue immediately and on its own, and the sugar sits on the surface and dissolves later. You get a clean hit of fat with no sugar in it, followed by sweetness a few seconds later, and a beer that clears the first part beautifully can be completely undone by the second.

That sequence is the whole reason a dry, bitter, carbonated beer seems to work on a donut. Bubble lift and mild bitterness are the two tools that deal with a coating of fat, and a donut is one of the few desserts where you can use them without any risk of the sugar making them harsh, because the sugar is not in the same bite. The failure mode is therefore specific and predictable, and it usually arrives not on the first bite but on the second, once the glaze has dissolved and the beer is no longer being credited for cutting the fat but is being compared against the sugar it cannot match.

What The Fry Leaves Behind

Frying changes the dough in ways that matter for pairing. Hot oil drives off water and drives starch into a crisped crust, and the interior that absorbs oil is the part that keeps it rich. Oil that has been heated too hot or used too long tastes of it, and a hot-oil note is close to the oxidation note in old beer, so a stale donut and a stale bottle can reinforce each other in a way that has nothing to do with the recipe of either. It is worth tasting the donut on its own first, and if the oil is the loudest thing about it, no beer in the cupboard is going to rescue that bite.

Time changes the balance as much as the fry does. A donut served fresh has more of its own fat available and tastes fattest, and a dry, lightly bitter, very carbonated beer reads as a genuine palate cleanser against it. The same donut a few hours later has lost moisture, and less water in the crust means less of the fat reaching your tongue, so it tastes more like sugar than like fat, and the dry beer that cleaned up the fresh one now has a sweet plate to fight. This is a real change in the food, not a change in your mood, and it is the reason a donut is a harder pairing to plan for than a cake with a fixed recipe.

The Glaze Is A Separate Decision

Not every donut is glazed, and the ones that are not are the easier case, because a plain ring has fat and only the faint sweetness of the dough itself. A sugar-rolled donut is somewhere in between, since the sugar sits dry on the surface and dissolves on the tongue rather than being set into the crumb, so it behaves more like a fat problem with a light sugar tail. A glazed donut, where the glaze is sugar and water cooked onto the surface and then set, is the hardest, because that is a genuine sugar layer and it will ask the beer for residual sweetness it usually does not have.

So the useful question when somebody hands you a donut is not which beer, but how much sugar is on the outside of it. If the answer is close to none, this is a fat pairing and a dry bitter lager or a pale ale is the right tool. If there is a heavy glaze, you are back to the dessert rule, which means the beer has to bring more sugar of its own, and that is a harder problem than most people expect from a pastry. An honest middle position is a beer with a little malt sweetness behind the bitterness, since it gives the bubbles and the hops something to do without leaving the fat unaddressed.

Reading The Plate Before You Pour

What you are looking atWhat to reach for
A plain or lightly sugared ring, fried in clean oil and served freshSomething dry, bitter and lively, since the fat is the only problem and carbonation is built for it
A sugar-rolled donut served a few hours after fryingA dry bitter beer, served a little warmer than usual, because the reduced fat means there is less to cut and more sweetness to stand up to
A glazed donut, or one from a shop that frosts everythingA beer with real residual malt sweetness behind moderate bitterness, or a smaller pour of the drier option than you would normally take
A filled donut, where the jam is a soft, room-temperature, sweetened centreTreat the filling as the dessert and the shell as the fat, so pick for the filling's sugar level and use carbonation only to the extent the filling allows
A stale or bitter-tasting donutNothing, or a coffee or spirit that matches the stale note, because the oil is the loudest thing in the bite and beer cannot fix a burnt taste

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does a dry pilsner work on a donut when it fails on cake?

Because the fat and the sugar arrive separately in a donut, and a dry pilsner only has to handle the fat. Against cake the sugar and the fat arrive in the same mouthful, so the beer has to hold up its end on sweetness at the same time as it cuts the richness, and a dry pilsner has nothing to offer on the sweetness side. Split the two problems across two bites and the dry beer looks far better than it deserves, which is why the pairing feels like a party trick until you try it with a frosted doughnut.

Is a sweet beer ever the right answer for a donut?

It is, and it is the better answer for a heavily glazed or filled donut, because that is where the sugar in the food is real and concentrated. The mistake people make is going sweet and then making the beer heavy as well, so you end up with a rich, sweet, high-alcohol beer that has lost the carbonation and the clean bitterness that were handling the fat. What works is a beer that is sweet and still lively, with enough hop or carbonation underneath to keep the fried crumb from sitting on your palate, rather than a dessert stout that is simply a liquid version of the dough.

Do I need to let the donut cool before pouring?

Give it a minute, because a straight-from-the-bag donut is hot enough to warm the beer in the glass within a few sips, and a beer that climbs in temperature gets sweeter, softer and more obviously alcoholic over exactly the time you are eating. Letting the donut cool also lets the oil settle back into the crumb, which reduces the sharp first mouthful of hot fat that makes a fresh donut taste overwhelmingly rich. This matters more than it sounds, because a warm beer judged against a hot donut gives you a result that has nothing to do with either one of them served at the temperature they are meant to be drunk at.

One Donut Is A Coincidence And A Plate Of Them Is A Decision

The honest version of this is that a single glazed donut with a dry pilsner is a happy accident that works for reasons you can now name, and it will keep working on plain and sugar-rolled rings. It stops working the moment the glaze is heavy, and a shop that frosts everything is a different problem from a bakery that sells plain ones. If you are the one buying, take the unglazed option, keep the beer dry, bitter and cold, and let the bubbles do the work on the fat, which is the version of the pairing that is actually about chemistry rather than about the fact that both things happen to be sweet.

Monday, July 24, 2023

Beer And Dessert: Why The Beer Has To Be Sweeter Than The Pudding

A sweet course changes the glass sitting next to it, and the change is not subtle. Sugar on the tongue makes the next thing you drink taste less sweet than it did a minute earlier, so a beer that was rounded and malty on its own comes back thin, sharp and faintly sour after a bite of cake. That is why dessert ruins more beers than any savoury dish does, and why the useful rule at the end of a dinner is arithmetic rather than taste: the beer has to be at least as sweet as the dessert. Almost nobody applies it, because almost everybody chooses the sweet course by colour and assumes a dark beer belongs with a dark pudding.

Three brown glass bottles with crest labels whose lettering cannot be read, and one small stemless glass of hazy pale golden beer with a thin head, standing behind a board holding a block of orange cheese, pale wedges, an ash-coated piece, a blue-veined chunk, two bowls of nuts and scattered seeds and peppercorns, on a wooden table with an autumn mountain valley at dusk behind

What The Rule Is Actually About

The beer is not on trial for its flavour. It is on trial for its residual sugar, which is the sweetness left in the glass after the yeast has eaten everything it is able to eat. A lager, a saison and a dry hoppy pale ale finish close to nothing, so beside a sweet thing they have no currency to trade with, and what survives the comparison is acid and bitterness, the two things malt sugar was keeping in check. A beer with real residual sweetness still loses some of its shape next to a very sweet dessert, but it loses a proportion rather than everything, and that difference is the whole distance between a pairing that reads as deliberate and one that reads as an accident.

Once you are looking for residual sugar instead of tasting notes, the sweet course stops being mysterious. You can spot the sugar in a beer within a couple of sips on its own, and you can measure the dessert against it in one bite, and the two either line up or they do not. Every other decision at the end of a dinner, including which glass to buy, comes after that.

Three Ways The Glass Loses

It Goes Thin And Sour

This is the commonest failure and the easiest to predict. Take the driest beer in the house, usually the one the drinker is most proud of, and drink it after a spoon of anything with frosting on it. The carbonation, which reads as lively on its own, now reads as bite. The hop bitterness has no malt sugar standing in front of it any more, so it goes from clean to harsh. The mild acidity that every beer carries arrives unbalanced, which is what people mean when they say a beer tastes like bread or vinegar beside a pudding. Nothing in the glass has changed. The reference point in your mouth has.

The Alcohol Burns

A strong beer beside a sweet dessert is the pairing people trust because both halves are impressive, and it fails in a very particular way. Ethanol has a burn, and in a sweet beer that burn is normally covered by sugar, which is how a barleywine can sit at nine or ten percent and drink smoothly. The dessert floods your tongue with sweetness first, and once that is occupied, what is left to notice in the glass is the alcohol and the drying it causes, so the beer tastes hot and thin while its malt has quietly gone out of the room. Strength is not sweetness, and a strong dry beer is the worst possible partner for a sugary cake. Weight beats power at this point in the meal, which is why a small pour of a five percent beer with sugar in it can work where a full glass of something enormous cannot.

Ash Where The Richness Should Be

The dry stout and chocolate combination looks inevitable from any flavour chart, since both sides are black and both taste of roast and cocoa, and at the table it often lands as something ashy and coffee-ground rather than rich. Roasted grain and dark cocoa both carry bitterness and a drying tannin, and a dry stout has no sugar in the glass to round either one off, so the two astringencies stack instead of balancing each other. You can fix that from either side. Put sweetness on the roast side, which is what a beer brewed with lactose does: lactose is a milk sugar that brewer's yeast cannot ferment, so it stays in the bottle as sweetness without adding any alcohol. Or take bitterness out of the dessert, which is what milk chocolate and a milder cocoa do. A pairing that fails on paper usually fails for one of those two reasons rather than for anything mysterious about the style.

Carbonation And Bitterness Against Custard And Cream

A creamy dessert is two problems wearing one hat, and most arguments about it come from answering the wrong half. Custard, panna cotta, ice cream and cream coat the tongue with fat, which is the same job a fatty cut of meat does, and the tools that deal with fat are carbonation and a degree of bitterness, because bubbles and the mild acid they bring strip the coating and make the next bite taste clean again. Sugar is the other half, and sugar is exactly what those same tools make worse. So decide which problem you are solving. If the custard has barely been sweetened, the way a custard made to be poured under fruit is, a dry and lively beer is a better answer than a sweet one, because there is fat to cut and no sugar to fight. If the tart is sweet, the same beer turns to vinegar and you are back at the first rule.

This is also why the most useful single bottle to have open at the end of a dinner is one that is both sparkling and sweet. The bubbles handle the cream and the sugar handles the sugar, and a beer that can do both does not force you to choose which half of the dessert you are willing to sacrifice.

Tart Fruit Is An Acid Problem

Fruit desserts trip people up in the opposite direction, because a lemon curd tart, a rhubarb crumble and a bowl of very sour cherries are not really sweet things. They are acid-forward things, and against them the question is not sugar but acid. If the plate is more acidic than the beer, the beer goes flat and faintly cloying, and if the beer is more acidic than the plate, the fruit tastes like candy and the beer tastes like nothing at all. What you want is a near tie, with sweetness in the beer so the acid has something to sit on.

Two kinds of tartness reach the table, and they behave differently. A kettle-soured beer is soured with bacteria before the boil and comes up soft and round, because lactic acid is a blunter acid than the citric and malic acid sitting in fruit, and it can meet a tart dessert without adding a vinegar edge. A fruit lambic is a different animal altogether, and it is worth understanding before you pour one beside a cherry pie.

Fruit put into a fermenting beer gives up its own sugar to the yeast and bacteria, which is why a lambic that has spent months sitting on cherries can finish bone dry, sometimes below the gravity of water. The sweet bottled fruit lambics people buy are sweet because sugar went back in afterwards, as syrup or as a blend of unfermented young lambic, not because the fruit made them sweet. That distinction decides the pairing, because a sweetened fruit lambic and a dry fruit sour are opposite drinks under similar labels. The first arrives with the same two things the dessert has, sugar and acid, which is why it can stand next to a fruit tart. The second arrives with acid and nothing to trade, and it fails beside that same tart exactly the way a dry lager does.

The Temperature Is Part Of The Pairing

Sweetness is not a fixed property of a liquid. It is a report your tongue files, and the report changes with temperature. Cold suppresses it, which is why an ice cream mix has to be loaded with sugar to taste sweet frozen and would be sickly as the same syrup warm. The same thing happens in the glass, so a dessert beer tasted at four degrees reads considerably drier than the identical beer at twelve, and a beer that seemed far too sweet straight from the bottle can be exactly right once it is cold. Which way to move the thermometer depends on which side of the rule you are on. If the beer is sweeter than the dessert, serve it colder than you would drink it on its own and it will hold its shape through the course. If the beer is already marginal, chilling it is the one move guaranteed to make it fail, so pour it slightly warmer and finish it before it climbs.

Temperature also drifts during a long sweet course, and that drift is the reason small pours exist. A glass sitting in a warm room climbs several degrees while people talk, and as it climbs the beer gets sweeter, softer and more alcoholic-tasting, so the pairing you judged at the first bite is not the one you end the meal with. Taste the beer with the dessert at the temperature you actually intend to serve both, rather than with the cake still in the tin and the bottle straight out of the fridge, because those are two different dinners.

You Are Allowed To Edit The Pudding

  • Cut the sugar in the recipe by roughly a quarter before you go out looking for a sweeter beer, since most home baking carries far more than anybody needs, and expect that change to reach the crumb and the crust, not the taste alone.
  • Put the sweetness where you can control it, which usually means a sauce or fruit served beside the dessert rather than baked all the way through it, so a bite and a sip can be matched one at a time.
  • Add acid, because citrus zest in a batter or tart cooked fruit over custard lowers how much sugar a plate needs before it tastes finished, and it gives a beer with acidity in it something to work with.
  • Add salt, which does the same job in miniature and is the reason salt goes on caramel, since it takes the edge off sweetness without making a dessert taste savoury.
  • Cool the dessert rather than the beer when the only bottle in the house is dry, because cold pulls perceived sweetness back on the plate while leaving the glass free to keep whatever little sugar it has.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my dessert beer taste dry next to the cake?

Because sweetness is judged against whatever your tongue tasted last, and the cake went first. The beer still holds exactly the sugar it always had, while the scale it is being read on has moved. The remedy is more sugar in the glass or less sugar on the plate, and it is never more flavour in the beer, which is why buying something aromatically impressive and bone dry makes the problem worse rather than better.

Can a hoppy beer ever work with dessert?

It can, but only when the dessert is not actually sweet, and the list of desserts like that is short. A bitter beer beside a low-sugar, high-fat plate, a plain shortbread or cream that has barely been sweetened, still has carbonation and bitterness doing useful work on the fat, with no sugar there to turn the hops harsh. The moment the plate carries real sugar, bitterness becomes the loudest problem in the glass instead of the solution. If an India pale ale is the only thing cold in the house, the honest move is to drink it with dinner and let the sweet course have something else.

Does a sweet beer have to be strong?

A sweet beer does not have to be a strong one, because alcohol and residual sugar are two separate decisions a brewer makes. Alcohol comes from the fermentable sugar the yeast ate, and sweetness comes from the sugar it did not eat, including sugars such as lactose that brewer's yeast cannot touch at all. A four percent beer brewed with milk sugar can carry a sweet course that a ten percent dry beer cannot, since it arrives with the one thing the dessert is trying to take away.

What do I pour when there are three desserts on the table?

Set the rule against the sweetest one, because that is the dessert that makes everything else look reasonable and the one that will kill a marginal beer. If nothing in the fridge is sweeter than that dessert, leave it on the side and keep the beer for the other two, which is what most hosts should have done anyway, since a sweet course nobody finished is a smaller waste than a bottle opened out of duty.

Taste It Before You Set The Table

The whole method fits into two minutes. Open the beer you meant to serve, take a bite of the dessert at the temperature it will be served at, and swallow before you sip. If the beer comes back thin and sour, you have three moves and only three, which are a beer with more sugar in it, a smaller pour of the one you have, or less sugar in the pudding. Nothing about the flavour of the beer is wrong yet, which is why reading the back label for tasting notes is the least useful thing you can do at the end of a dinner. The one thing that decides the course is how much sweetness is left in the glass, and once you can find it by taste, the dessert shelf stops being a gamble.