Showing posts with label brazil. Show all posts
Showing posts with label brazil. Show all posts

Friday, May 5, 2023

Brazilian Beer: A Lager Country And The Brewers Using Native Fruit

Brazil is the third-largest beer market in the world (Beer in Brazil), and almost everything poured there is a pale, clean lager, so a Brazilian beer that tastes of passion fruit is a deliberate exception rather than the national default. The phrase tropical Brazilian ale does not name a style with a recipe, a fermentation method or a competition category. It is a loose label for what a handful of craft brewers do with fruit and timber that grow in Brazil, which is a more interesting story than the exotic-paradise version usually told around it.

Four glasses of golden and hazy orange beer on a wooden board, ringed with pineapple, coconut halves, sliced mango and strawberries, with palm fronds and the sea behind them

What A Brazilian Beer Expects

  • Read tropical Brazilian ale as a description of what went into the tank, because no style guide or competition category uses the term.
  • Serve the ordinary lagers very cold, since they are built for heat and their job is to be clean and refreshing between bites.
  • Pour a fruit beer a little warmer and more lightly chilled than a lager, because cold suppresses the aroma that makes it worth drinking.
  • Treat cachaça barrel ageing as one producer's project rather than a national tradition, because the evidence that it is common practice is thin.

The Beer Brazilians Actually Drink

Lager arrived with 19th-century European immigration and took root in the southern states, where German and Italian communities built the breweries that still shape how the country drinks. Blumenau, in Santa Catarina, has run its own Oktoberfest for decades and draws visitors from across South America, and the brewing families of Rio Grande do Sul and Paraná came out of the same settlement wave.

The market later consolidated around a few enormous producers. Ambev was formed in 1999 from the merger of the Brahma and Antarctica brands, was bought by InBev in 2004 and is now part of Anheuser-Busch InBev, which means most Brazilian beer volume sits behind a single company. That is the context any small Brazilian brewery has to be judged against, at home and abroad.

What you order at a boteco is a long-neck bottle of light, corn-adjunct lager served so cold that condensation freezes on the glass, and the standard request asks for it estupidamente gelada, stupidly cold. The low bitterness and brisk carbonation are not an accident of cheap brewing. Those lagers are built for heat and for a table of food, and they are drunk with fried cod croquettes, grilled picanha and warm cheese bread.

What Tropical Brazilian Ale Refers To

No style guide used by homebrewers or competition judges lists a Brazilian ale, so the phrase describes an ingredient habit rather than a brewing method. You will find Brazilian brewers making wheat beer, pale ale, stout and lager in the ordinary ways and then putting something local into the finished beer, most often fruit.

Cupuaçu, açaí, jabuticaba, camu camu, guava, mango and passion fruit are all Brazilian fruit, and they appear in juices, desserts, liqueurs and ice cream across the country. Craft brewers use them too, usually as purée or juice added to beer rather than as a base ingredient, and the fruit-forward examples tend to come from breweries in the Amazon basin and in the south.

The part that does not hold up is the history. Brazilian brewing is a lager history, and fruit beer is a recent craft development rather than a tradition inherited from colonial kitchens, so a bottle sold as a centuries-old Brazilian ale is being sold a story. A name with no style guide behind it also tells you almost nothing when it is on the bottle, which cuts both ways: the phrase tropical Brazilian ale will not tell you whether the beer is good, and it will not be used to hide a bad one either. The genuine interest is in what current brewers are doing with ingredients that are cheap and familiar at home and rare everywhere else.

Breweries Worth Knowing By Name

Cervejaria Colorado, in Ribeirão Preto in the state of São Paulo, is the name most often raised when Brazilian craft beer is discussed, and it has spent years building a list around local ingredients. Amazon Beer works with fruit and botanicals from the Amazon basin, and Bodebrown, in Curitiba, carries one of the better-known names in the south.

None of those breweries has much of a presence in Canada, which changes how useful the name is to you. Brazilian craft beer is rarely exported, so the realistic routes to it are a trip to São Paulo, Curitiba or Manaus, or a specialty shop that happens to carry one or two bottles. The large Brazilian lagers are easier to find than the small ones, and they tell you about the market rather than about the scene.

How To Drink Brazilian Beer

Serve Brazilian lagers very cold, in a glass if you care about what they taste like and in the bottle if you are standing in a kitchen, and do not go looking for complexity in them. Their job is to be clean and refreshing between bites, and they do that job well. A fruit beer from a Brazilian craft brewery is the opposite case, and it wants the treatment you would give a lambic: lightly chilled, in a stemmed glass, and finished the day you open it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is there an official style called a tropical Brazilian ale?

There is no such category. The families listed in style guides and competitions are German, Czech, Belgian, British and American, and Brazilian breweries enter those with their own ingredients rather than defining a new one. Treat the phrase as a description of what went into the tank, not as a recipe anybody is following.

Why is beer in Brazil served so cold?

Because much of the country is warm and the dominant beers are brewed to stay clean at low temperature, chilling them close to freezing costs very little in flavour. Cold suppresses aroma, which matters far more in a hop-forward beer than in a lightly bitter lager, and an ice bucket on the table is the standard solution at a barbecue. If you are drinking a Brazilian fruit beer, pour it a little warmer and you will find more in the glass.

What food goes with Brazilian beer?

The ordinary answers are the ones that work. Pão de queijo, the baked cheese bread made with tapioca starch, matches a cold lager the way a pretzel matches a helles. Fried cod croquettes, grilled picanha with coarse salt, and the coconut-milk fish stew moqueca from Bahia all want something crisp and carbonated to cut the fat, which is exactly what the local lagers are.

Is beer aged in cachaça barrels a Brazilian tradition?

Cachaça, the Brazilian spirit distilled from sugarcane juice, is aged in barrels made from several native woods, so the country does have a real barrel culture. Whether breweries routinely put beer into old cachaça barrels is a separate claim, and the evidence that it is common practice is thin. If you find a Brazilian beer aged that way, treat it as one producer's project rather than a national style.

Can I find Brazilian craft beer in British Columbia?

Expect the large commercial labels before you expect the small ones, and expect both to arrive intermittently. Brazil exports very little of its craft output, so the reliable way to drink it is in Brazil, where taprooms and beer bars in São Paulo, Curitiba and Belo Horizonte carry far more than will ever cross the Pacific.