Monday, July 3, 2023

Organic Beer and What a Sustainability Claim Actually Covers

Organic on a beer label is a statement about the farm rather than about the brewery, and the gap between those two things is where most of the confusion in this topic lives. A certified organic beer has to be brewed from grain and hops grown to a national standard and inspected year after year, which is a real and checkable claim, while the words sustainable, green and eco-friendly around it usually describe energy, water and packaging, none of which the organic standard touches. Once you keep those two claims apart, you can tell which sentence on a can is backed by a certificate and which one is asking you to take a brewery's word for it.

A handled glass mug of golden beer with a thick white head in front of a row of dark brown bottles, one carrying a plain green label, on a wooden table covered with fresh green hop cones and leaves

What To Look For On The Can

  • Look for the certification mark rather than the word organic in a decorative font, because the mark names the standard the brewery was audited against.
  • Ask which ingredient the claim covers, since organic hops and organic grain are different statements from a certified beer.
  • Treat energy, water and waste claims as dated until the brewery says when, because a target and a finished project are not the same.
  • Read the grain bill before you judge the sustainability work, since the certificate stops at the farm gate and says nothing about the brewhouse.

What Certified Organic Covers in a Glass

The organic standard regulates inputs and record-keeping. Ground has to be farmed without synthetic fertiliser and most synthetic pesticides through a transition period of several years before the crop counts, the farm is inspected and its records reviewed each year by a certifying body accredited by the government, and everything that handles the crop afterwards, including the malt house and the brewhouse, is inspected as well. In Canada a product may carry the Canada Organic logo and the word organic only when at least 95 percent of its ingredients, water and salt aside, are organic, with a lower made-with-organic tier for products above 70 percent. The United States runs a comparable scheme through the USDA National Organic Program and the European Union has its own standard, so a brewery can be certified to one of them and not the others.

Notice what is missing from that list. The standard says nothing about how much electricity a brewhouse draws, how much water goes down the drain, how far the grain travelled or whether the can comes back. Certification is about what was applied to the barley and what an auditor found in the paperwork, which is a narrower promise than the marketing around it usually implies.

Why Organic Malt and Hops Are the Hard Part

Barley and hops are both awkward crops to grow this way, which is why the beers carrying the logo tend to cost more. Organic barley commands a premium at the elevator and the malting capacity open to organic grain is thinner than the conventional supply, so a brewery that wants certified malt is usually booking it a season ahead and paying for the privilege. The malt itself is not a different substance, since it is the same variety grown on ground kept clear of synthetic inputs, and a maltster turns it into the same base malt a neighbouring brewery would buy.

Hops are harder, because a perennial trellis crop in a wet summer invites aphids and downy mildew, and the organic tool kit is limited to permitted inputs such as copper and sulphur along with canopy management and resistant varieties. That is why certified organic hops are a scarce and expensive line item, and why a heavily hopped beer is the hardest kind of organic beer to make at a price a customer will pay. When you see a brewery describe the grain in a beer as organic and the finished product as something looser, that cost is usually what happened.

The Sustainability Work a Label Never Mentions

If you want to judge a brewery rather than a farm, look at the four inputs that dominate its footprint, which are water, energy, grain and packaging.

  • Water is measured as litres used per litre of packaged beer, and most of it never reaches a kettle, because cleaning vessels, lines and packaging equipment is what consumes it. A brewery that recovers rinse water or uses the final rinse of one clean-up as the first rinse of the next is doing something measurable.
  • Energy goes mostly into raising a large volume of liquid to a boil and then pulling it back down to cellar temperature, which is why heat recovery on the kettle and the wort chiller is the standard first upgrade rather than a rooftop of panels.
  • Spent grain is the largest waste stream by weight and the oldest success story in the trade, since the bulk of it has gone to farms as cattle and pig feed for as long as breweries have sat beside farmland, with composting and anaerobic digestion as the routes when a feed buyer is not available.
  • Packaging is the one link you control. In British Columbia a deposit sits on beer cans and bottles and they come back through the return and refund system, and recycled aluminium is one of the largest and best-measured energy savings in the whole chain, well ahead of most farming decisions a label advertises.

Two North American examples are quoted so often in this subject that their real figures are worth setting out. New Belgium in Fort Collins signed a contract in January 1999 for the annual output of a wind turbine matched to the brewery's electricity use, which is why the company is usually credited as the first fully wind-powered brewery in the United States. Sierra Nevada has reported roughly 2,200 solar panels at its Mills River, North Carolina, plant and about 2.6 megawatts of capacity across its California and North Carolina sites, a figure the company has billed as the largest solar array in craft brewing. Any version of those numbers you see quoted far above what the breweries themselves publish is second-hand.

How to Check a Claim Before You Pay for It

  1. Look for a certification mark rather than the word organic set in a decorative font, because the mark names the standard the brewery was audited against.
  2. Read which ingredient the claim covers, since organic hops or organic grain is a different statement from a certified organic beer.
  3. Find the certifying body, which a certified operation can name on request, and treat a brewery that cannot name one as uncertified however carefully it farms.
  4. Treat energy, water and waste claims as dated unless the brewery says when, because an array installed in 1999 and a target set for next year are not the same reason to buy.
  5. Ask a taproom which of its beers is certified and which is simply brewed with local fruit, since both are good stories and only one of them carries a certificate.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is organic beer better for you?

There is no good evidence that it is, and the certification was never a nutrition claim. Organic rules restrict synthetic pesticide residues on the raw grain and hops, and barley is stored, kilned and then steeped in water long before any residue question reaches your glass, while the alcohol in the finished beer is exactly what the farming method cannot change. If you are choosing on health grounds, strength and quantity do far more work than the growing method.

Does organic beer taste different?

Not because of the word organic. The malt and hops are the same varieties grown under a different input regime, so certified organic pale malt behaves like pale malt, and the differences you can actually taste in an organic beer come from the recipe, the freshness of the hops and how carefully the brewery handles fermentation and temperature. A brewery small enough to bother with certification is often also a brewery paying attention to those three things, which is where the style's reputation for tasting better came from.

Why does certified organic beer cost more?

Three separate costs stack up behind the price. The farm premium on organic barley and hops is the largest, the limited supply of organic malt adds a second, and the annual audit is a fixed cost that gets spread across however short the certified run is. A brewery that brews one certified beer alongside ten uncertified ones carries all of that overhead for the smallest volume on its list, and the six-pack is where you see it.

Yes, and it is the common case. A brewery can buy organic malt and hops without being certified, in which case it may describe those ingredients but cannot make the certified claim, and a genuinely low-impact operation may simply have decided the audit was not worth what it costs at its volume. That is the reason to look for the mark rather than the language around it.

Is there certified organic beer available in British Columbia?

Organic beer is brewed in Canada, and prairie farms grow organic barley that reaches Canadian malt houses, so a certified bottle on a BC shelf is not an exotic import. What the certificate tells you stops at the farm gate, so read the mark first and then decide separately whether a brewery's water, energy and packaging work is worth paying for, because those are different questions with different answers and neither one is settled by the word organic.

Judge the Claim by What It Covers

The useful habit is to put one question to any green sentence on a can: what would have to be true for this to be printed, and who checked. Organic has a real answer to that question, which is why it deserves attention and why paying a premium for it is a reasonable choice if you care how barley and hops are grown. Almost every other claim in this category does not have that answer yet, and the sustainability work most likely to change what you buy is the part no certifier has a mark for.